Hansjakob Werlen
Google
We were glad to hear that one of our favorite Philly restaurants was now reincarnated in nearby Wallingford.
The menu at the new Fond is a somewhat confusing mishmash, maybe to appease diverse tastes. While ostensibly French, there are dishes, including a Hummus appetizer and Lamb Kofta that one can expect pretty much around any corner of a Turkish (or European) city. The couscous with the lamb dish was the Israeli version of small pasta balls, served cold under the two lamb patties. I was interested in the gnocchi with roasted mushrooms but a server's information that truffle oil (a chemical formula from the flavor industry) was used in that dish dissuaded us.
Very enjoyable: excellent tuna crudo in coconut broth, the carefully composed Belgian Endive salad, and hummus with house made pita bread. Someone in the kitchen took the searing of the foie gras a little too far but the small piece of liver was delicious. The roasted shrimp came with more of the very good pita bread, the beef burgundy had a satisfying rich taste.
The small apple tart reminded us why we loved the old Fond: a flaky, scrumptious crust encasing warm apples with dabs of caramel. Addictively good.
We came on a night when the restaurant was full and the noise was deafening! A decibel meter showed high 80s throughout our meal, with occasional forays into the 90s when someone said something funny at the neighboring table. We shouted at each other across the table the entire meal. Some type of noise-reduction remedy should be installed right away for times when the restaurant is full.