Nic P.
Yelp
Andrew Zimmern of television fame offers up some delicious advice when he says (and I paraphrase):
"One of the best ways to understand and get to know another culture is through its food."
It has been and continues to be an impassioned mission of this reviewer to find the best, most authentic Memphis-area restaurants to serve as truthful representatives of their respective cultural origins.
I must say with a heavy heart that, after visiting Formosa Restaurant, my search for truly authentic Chinese food continues.
Chinese cuisine has always been a great love of mine. I've had several great experiences in this city and beyond concerning China's rich culinary history. It's out there, if one knows where to look and how to look for it.
One of the standard procedures in acquiring a truly Chinese meal is to ask for "the other menu." So, when i was seated with a menu featuring the dreaded likes of cashew shrimp and General Zuo's Chicken, I wasn't too worried. Yet to my dismay, when I politely asked as to whether or not "the other menu," was an option, I was informed that the menu placed in front of me was "all they had." I was quiet in my surprise. I hate making a big deal of things at restaurants. I work in the business, for God's sake. It was disappointing, I will say, that a kitchen and house full of Chinese staff did not have an alternate menu. So, it seemed that I was to be stuck with Americanized dishes this time. As such, I didn't bother asking for tea or chopsticks, though I'm sure they had both.
As far as the meal itself went, I decided to take it for what it was. The lunch deal is a steal. About ten dollars yields soup, spring roll, lunch platter, and (oddly enough) a piece of fried chicken. If a Memphian would like a top notch ---American--- Chinese experience, I would give him a nudge in the direction of Formosa Restaurant. For that person, the hot and sour soup would be divine, the spring rolls crisp and flavorful, the wontons crunchy, the fried rice exceptional, and the forks and spoons all too convenient.
But for someone searching for something more, for one who is so sick and tired of the necessity for good people with, pardon my French, fucking incredible culinary histories to dumb down their menus and traditions to cater to a grease-hungry clientele...well, I'm afraid that someone will have to look elsewhere.
It could be argued that the fact that I'm an idealist destroys the integrity of this review. To be honest, in retrospect, perhaps what I expected when I walked in the door was a bit unfair. I mean, lunchtime at a Chinese restaurant in Memphis? Did I expect Dim Sum or something? Carts traveling the floor loaded up with tripe, chicken feet, steamed buns, dumplings, et al? Duck? Eggplant? Hot pots? There are other places I could have gone for that. So yes, I realize that these expectations are completely unfair. However, considering that Formosa is a place which advertises itself as a traditional Chinese restaurant blending traditional and modern flavors, I feel that my expectations were grounded in some sort of truth.
So, for this Chinese Restaurant,
Service: Good.
Decor: Lovely.
Food: American.
P.S. and Addendum:
Perhaps I will go again for dinner service sometime. I would love to see if they offer an alternate menu then.
Nothing would make me happier than to add Formosa to my list of Authentic Chinese Havens in Memphis!