Gregory B.
Yelp
Finally got to Fortuna for a solo Father's Day meal. Being solo, I sat at the bar and was attended to by Rainey, who used to bartend at Bar Louie in One Bellevue Place. Great service, as always (which says something, at least to me, as the Bellevue Bar Louie can be a dumpster fire of badness - Happy Hour at the bar an exception?).
As a full disclosure, I am rating partially on potential, as I think the food and atmosphere are definitely 5 star, but there are still some kinks. I also gave a bump as I think the one star reviews are written out of ignorance over the type of restaurant, food, and that a soft opening turned into a major storm (which would hurt any new restaurant). I hope the people rating that way get educated on the food and give it another try.
I like what they did to the place, which is somewhat minimal. If you ever visited the Applebee's before it's early demise, the layout is similar. Some of the televisions have been moved around but play classic movies instead of sports (ala Chauhan in the Gulch, albeit not classic Bollywood). The colors and layout are classic enough to go upscale casual (which Fortuna is) or more sports bar, which Applebee's was. The reuse of cabinets near the bar for wine selections tips to the casual upscale side.
The starter menu (see pictures) screams steakhouse, with some raw bar, salads, pasta, and Italian classics (mostly around meat). Talking to the chef, the beef comes from their own commissary, which also sells to many restaurants in the Nashville area. As such, you will get a good cut at a better price point than some other spots.
For my meal, I started with a Fortuna Salad with the basalmic ranch dressing. Was not sure about basalmic in ranch, but the mixture of fat and sour actually work well. The salad is made with a mescalin mix, roasted tomatoes, bacon, and burrata cheese (see picture).
My main course was a ribeye with mushroom risotto. The ribeye was a perfect medium rare (not as evident in the picture) with a nice crust on the outside. Very hot grill, a good understanding of time to temp. I opted for black garlic (fermented garlic) butter for the topping, but was also tempted by the demi-glace. The mushroom risotto was creamy with a wonderful flavor. If I had one suggestion here, I would bring in a roasted garlic flavor to complement the mushrooms. As an aside, I do risotto at home and it is very labor intensive and easy to mess up, so kudos to the chef.
To pair with the steak, I chose a Montepulciano, which is a Tuscan blend with Sangiovese as the base. The slight spiciness worked well as a complement to the steak, but after ordering we talked wine and realized the house "Il Bastardo" (yes, it means what you think) is a Sangiovese and should pair as well as the Montepulciano (I will add an update when I get a Ny Strip and the Sangiovese).
To end, I tried the cheesecake. Browned top with a custard like middle, which is very authentic to the style. Topped with a basalmic drizzle and macerated strawberries, giving it a very elegant tone. I boxed up the meal to make room for a bit of cheesecake, but ended up eating the entire thing while I sat at the bar.
I can't say much about the Italian dishes, as I did not have anyone else around to sample various dishes. I will likely find that chance at some point and rectify the situation. Of the other items, I am most curious about the Veal Saltimbocca off the favorites and the Carbonara and Gnocchi Bolognese (a hard dish to get right) on the pasta menu.
As for the one star reviews, I think we need to level set. Fortuna attempted a soft opening, but the "first post" crowd felt everyone needed to know they were open and slammed them (a success problem, as few, if any, restaurants are prepared for an onslaught during a soft open). Second, If you want to compare fairly, this is closer to one of our downtown steakhouses, with an Italian flair, than Olive Garden (McDonald's is right out). It might not be on top of the best steakhouses in Nashville, but the price point is a bit lower, which fits the upscale casual vein.