Sven Oliver
Google
We’re currently in Leipzig and decided to check out what a Michelin-starred menu experience looks like at Frieda. I went for the classic dégustation menu and opted to add the caviar supplement, while my partner chose the vegetarian version — which, in hindsight, turned out to be a regrettable decision.
As the meal progressed, we were told that the first three servings — fennel with granité and coriander, beetroot tartare with coconut and hazelnut, and a potato bread — were actually part of the amuse-bouche. We had initially assumed they were the opening courses, as listed online, but the portion sizes already raised suspicion. Taste-wise, the fennel dish was fine. The beetroot and coconut pairing felt a bit mismatched, and the hazelnuts didn’t come through at all. Surprisingly, my partner’s chive butter with the bread felt more interesting than my Iberico fat with apple and onion.
The next course was meant to be a highlight for me: scallop with kaviar. As someone who’s enjoyed scallops across several starred restaurants this year — from Spain to Germany — I had high expectations. Sadly, the scallop was underwhelming. The kaviar on top dominated everything, and the quality of the scallop didn’t shine through. The pork chin and leek were more of a filler, and plating-wise, this didn’t really scream star level. Oddly enough, my partner’s umami-glazed aubergine on the vegetarian path had more presence on the plate.
Next up was the asparagus. The light soup was pleasant, though both of us agreed the miso caramel completely vanished in the composition.
The real high point was the Atlantic sea bass — delicate, flaky, and cooked just right. Meanwhile, the vegetarian counterpart my partner received was essentially the garnish from my dish, just with a few mushrooms thrown in. She found them bland and forgettable.
My main dish, the guinea fowl, was okay. The meat could’ve used a bit more depth and seasoning, and the umami tomato paste felt overbearing. My partner’s main — a potato terrine — was a letdown. It lacked inspiration, felt more like a side than a centerpiece, and didn’t include any thoughtful protein alternative like tofu, tempeh, egg, or even cheese.
Desserts started with a milk ice cream served with strawberry, lemon cream, and almond crisp — enjoyable, but nothing spectacular. The second dessert — rice cream with sour cherry, green apple, and eggnog — missed the mark. The eggnog was undetectable, and the apple element fell flat.
In short: this evening came dangerously close to being underwhelming for a Michelin-starred experience. Based on other one-star restaurants we’ve visited, I’m not sure this one would stand out in a more competitive region. My partner actually left hungry, which says a lot given her small appetite. Desserts were minimal, no petit fours were served, and bread was not replenished. Carbs in general were scarce — both in the classic and vegetarian menus — and again, the vegetarian path lacked real substance in terms of protein and variety.
Had my partner rated her experience alone, it would’ve been 2 out of 5. I’ll settle on 3 out of 5, thanks mostly to the friendly — albeit slightly unpolished — service. Still, three hours at the table with unexplained pauses between small courses felt stretched.
Excluding tip, and with just one aperitif and two glasses of wine in total, we paid just under €320 — a price point that, as someone who dines at starred restaurants regularly and has run a restaurant myself, doesn’t quite hold up here.
What was ultimately missing throughout the entire evening was that one standout dish — or even two — that stays with you for months. The kind of plate that makes you say 'wow', the moment it hits the table, and lingers in your memory like a signature moment. That’s what you come to a Michelin-starred restaurant for. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a single course that delivered that. No dish we’d rave about weeks later, no “I wish I could have that again” moment. Just nothing that earned the title of a true signature showstopper.
Thanks.
