Randy S.
Yelp
Tokyo, Kagurazaka. November 2024.
Kagurazaka is a very complex neighborhood. While it is part of Shinjuku the streets uphill of the Metro stations are narrow. Yokocho lanes even more narrow branch off to the sides. Pedestrian foot traffic only alleys create a more complex web.
If you want a foreigner-friendly introduction to kaiseki paired with nihonshu, you should start here at Fushikino. But first, you have to find it.
There are nine seats around a counter made of chestnut. The room is spare. The service and atmosphere is actually casual and relaxed, although you'll notice people whispering instead of talking.
The chef is a certified sake sommelier and when he opened his restaurant he was the first to regularly do a modified kaiseki to match with a sake pairing. He regularly serves aged sake in his pairings. Today, you can find a lot of places in Tokyo doing the same thing.
The plate-ware and glassware are meant to highlight the food and sake. In some cases you will receive a cup for your sake that resembles ceramic-ware but without the weight. What has been place in front of you is a piece of art - a cup made of core lacquer, without wood as a base, made by artist Yamagishi Shodo. There is a display of pieces for sale - they range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.
The food is seasonal. For winter, you may have a seko-gani, female snow crab with roe, accompanied by a kani-su of rice vinegar and myoga. When you are done, the shell will be taken and place on a bincho filled shichirin. It is roasted, and when ready, sake will be poured in to heat up. The heated sake with the flavor of the crab will be served - kani kora sake.
Among all the happily casual abundance of Kagurazaka's places to eat and drink, Fushikino stands out as a heavyweight. Worth seeking out.