Klaus K.
Google
I don't know why, but let's start with the conclusion this time: for me, the combination of food quality, menu, service, and location is the best experience I've had in a 3-star restaurant so far. It's also the most expensive, to be honest, but then again, we are eating in one of the most iconic hotels in the world, Atlantis The Palm, with one of the most decorated chefs, Björn Frantzén.
The entrance is a simple door with a bell. After a friendly welcome, we take the elevator up to a cozy room that we'll call a living room, with a small kitchen station in one corner, sofas, and armchairs. I immediately feel at home, which is supported by the friendly service team, who do an exceptional job throughout the evening. If it weren't almost midnight at the end of the meal, I could have stayed and chatted for hours with the international staff from 19 countries.
About the food (my subjective opinion! The rating refers to my expectations of a restaurant in this category and price range. +/0/– should be self-explanatory):
The menu, priced at a hefty 2000 AED (approx. 460 EUR), includes 5 appetizers in the living room, 9 courses in the dining room, and 4 sweets back in the living room. I have to be brief because Google has an – in this case very limiting - character limit.
The appetizers are very impressive overall: pâte brisée crackers (0-) veal blinis (0), langoustine tartlets with a magnificent texture (0), raraka, Frantzén's signature snack, which takes 48 hours to prepare, and you can taste it (+). Then I am invited to the kitchen counter where – invented by Frantzen – various ingredients for the evening are presented in a display drawer. The cuisine is very product-oriented overall, using top-quality international ingredients, so a green star for sustainability is certainly not in sight 😊. Before changing rooms, there is a vol-au-vent with rabbit and caviar (0+)
In the dining room, things continue at a brisk pace; after all, 18 courses have to be integrated into 3.5 hours. I am seated directly in front of the kitchen, a unique experience. The chefs with head chef Torsten Vildgaard work almost silently; it is impressive. Most of the courses are finished right at the table - usually by the chefs who made them - and explained in detail. Let's get started:
Scallops, one of the most beautiful dishes I have ever had the pleasure of eating on my travels. (0) Next: simpler, but with a taste from another planet: langoustine, fried with rice on the underside and served with an emulsion of matsutake and yuzu (+) The chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard) is not my favorite course (0-)
Then I am served monkfish, aged for several days and grilled over open fire. The fish - with otherworldly texture and taste - swims in a divine mushroom broth (0+). Next comes another Frantzén classic: French toast with a generous helping of truffles, magnificent (+) The onion, almond, and licorice soup is also one of Frantzén's regular dishes, and keen cooks can watch a video tutorial on YouTube to learn how to make it themselves. (0+)
The meat course is BBQ pigeon, seasoned with pear and truffle (0). The incredible menu moves on to the sweet part, with a sea buckthorn sorbet bridging the gap (0). This is followed by the last course in the dining room: pistachio ice cream with raspberry contrasts and a hint of mint (0+)
Back in the living room, I am served half a Amaou strawberry and a piece of musk melon (0-), followed by petit fours (four delicacies, 0) on a pretty half plate, and then the experience unfortunately comes to an end with cardamom madeleines (9 pieces). If you're still hungry afterwards, you can order another nine until you're full(0).
If you want wine to accompany your meal, you can choose between three variations ranging from approximately EUR 180 to incredible EUR 1.400. I am more than satisfied with the non-alcoholic accompaniment. If you want nice conversations, you can have them with the people sitting next to you or the staff. They are free and highly entertaining :)
Conclusion for the second time: Highest recommendation.