Robert A.
Yelp
Melbourne is no stranger to the wonderful allure of gelato, that Italian variation on ice cream, with stores dotted around the city from Lygon Street to Southbank and beyond. However in the past year a new gelato craze has hit Melbourne: the opening of Gelateria Primavera at Spring Street Grocer, the rise of Helados Jauja (an Argentinian take on gelato) and more recently the arrival of the Heston inspired liquid nitrogen wizardry of N2 Extreme. All of this culminated in 70 000 people attending the Gelato World Tour in October where first prize went to Sydney-based Gelato Messina, who have recently opened on Smith Street, Fitzroy.
Anyone who has lived in or visited Sydney, especially in summer, will probably have heard about or lined up at one of Gelato Messina's stores around the city waiting to taste one of the forty flavours on display. While they always have traditional flavours on hand like coffee, gianduia (chocolate & hazelnut), pistachio and vanilla, they have become popular for their sometimes boundary pushing special flavours, a new one appears on the menu every day from Tuesday to Saturday. Lately there has been the Fo Shizzle (caramel custard gelato with candied hazelnuts, chocolate chips and raspberry sauce), the Elvis, The Fat Years (peanut butter gelato, fried brioche and banana jam) and the one that took first place at the Gelato World Tour, Cremino (salted caramel and gianduia gelato with fresh meringue and amaretti).
While shops like N2 Extreme favour modern techniques and a mist of nitrogen floating across their counter, Gelato Messina retains the traditional approach, with all the gelato hand-churned on site; it is only the flavours that veer towards cutting edge. So what is the difference between gelato and ice cream? Gelato contains less fat than ice cream, has less incorporated air, and is served at a higher temperature. Which means it has a greater flavour experience because there is less fat to coat the taste buds, more flavour per spoonful (due to lower quantity of air), and the taste buds are more alive since the temperature is not so cold as to dull their sensitivity.
The first store was opened in Sydney in 2002 by Nick Palumbo and has grown to multiple stores across Sydney, the new Melbourne store and they are looking to branch out overseas soon with their first store in China. Inspired by his Italian heritage and childhood experiences, Palumbo first learnt how to make gelato from his uncle as a teenager, which is a similar story to his partner in the Melbourne store, Simone Panetta (who has worked at Grossi Florentino, Vue de Monde and Rosetta) who began making gelato when he was young. This passion and experience is easily seen in the effort that goes into the gelato, which uses all natural flavours and the best quality ingredients, with most of the inclusions made on-site (the apple pie swirled through their famous apple pie gelato is baked in-store).
The best flavours I have tried so far are the Salted Coconut and Mango, beautifully rich and refreshing for a warm sunny day, and the above mentioned Apple Pie, with chunks of apple, pastry and aromatic cinnamon. For me the dark chocolate based ice creams were a bit rich and overpowering when sharing a cone or tub with other flavours, but for any chocolate lover they will be in heaven, the Black Forest has cake and cherry strewn through dark chocolate gelato.
It is not all about scoops of gelato, they have picked up a reputation for their gelato cakes which are a world away from those horrible supermarket ice cream cakes you may have suffered through. Their Dr Evil's Magic Mushroom is just that, a mushroom cap filled with dark chocolate gelato, peanut cookies and dulce de leche and covered in vanilla cream, chocolate sponge, and red ganache; the stalk is dulce de leche caramel and dark chocolate gelato, all sitting on popping candy 'grass' and crushed biscuits. Their Black Forest cake is anything but simple, a spherical cake with chocolate fondant gelato, kirsch semi freddo with amarena cherries, cherry sorbet and a crisp dark chocolate dome.
If the lines out the door at their Sydney stores and similar queues at Melbourne stores like N2 are anything to go by, Gelato Messina is going to be one of summer's (if it ever arrives) places to be and somewhere to cool down with a delicious gelato.