Jessica S.
Yelp
The Ghibli Museum located in Mitaka just a 30 minute train ride outside of Shinjuku, Tokyo was everything I wanted it to be. It was an immersive, memorable experience despite the strict no photos policy while navigating inside the museum. In fact, my presence and attention to the one-of-a-kind illustrations and artifacts of the works of Ghibli -- mainly Hayao Miyazaki -- allowed me to take in the details of the works from my more natural lens which led to a more profound appreciation for the art and animation on display. The exhibits on display were imaginative, the layout of the museum completely haphazard which was quite reflective of the nature of some of Ghibli's films. It was subtle and because of the no photos policy, I was able to notice it, but the dizzying exploration of the museum reminded me quite fondly of the disarray of Howl's Moving Castle. I will not spoil the magic of the other exhibits as you have to experience it for yourself to feel the wonder and awe.
Other than Howl's, there is a definite emphasis on Totoro, Ghibi's most famous character, Spirited Away, Castle in the Sky, Porco Rosso, Kiki's Delivery Service, and How Do You Live?/ The Boy and the Heron (US). If you are looking for more Princess Mononoke elements, then you'll have to go to Ghibli Park. Entry into the museum allows you to experience the exhibits but also to enjoy the exclusive short 15-minute film they have scheduled. These shorts are completely proprietary and cannot be viewed anywhere else. You do have the chance opportunity to watch the Totoro short (Mei and the Kittenbus). During my visit though, they had a STRANGE, but iconically quirky film showing called the Mr. Dough and the Egg Princess. There are no subtitles but the film had no dialogue; characters communicated strictly with facial expressions. I was still able to catch the story of the film which, in and of itself, is quite fascinating!
I can confirm how challenging it is to secure tickets. Admissions are by advanced reservation only and go on sale through Lawson's ticket website on the 10th of the previous month at 10am Japan Time, which meant I was hopping on at 6pm PT on Oct 9 to scout for November admissions. The website is notoriously clunking and slow! I thought it was hopeless when I made the mistake of not refreshing on the hour (I thought it would auto refresh as I was in the 'waiting room'). I had a 45 minute wait or so and was like 600th in line, but there were still plenty of time slots when I was finally admitted to purchase. Oddly, Monday morning slots were sold out so I hesitantly elected a Sunday 10am time slot.
This comes highly recommended for a weekend and I was able to roam the museum with manageable crowds. I also lined up 15-20 minutes prior to ensure I was one of the first ones in. As soon as 12pm rolled around, some exhibits were so mindlessly crowded, others with queues. At this point, it was timely to have some lunch at their Straw Hat Cafe located outside. The food here was pretty 'meh' and basic, so I only got a light snack here. If you want Ghibli themed food, check out Shirohige's Cream Puff Factory or Corn Barley after your visit to the museum. If you are able to line up reservations at Corn Barley and pick up the cream puffs hassle-free, it will make for quite the magical morning and afternoon in Mitaka. It was a splendid experience and made for the perfect rainy day activity!
Other tips:
-Do ensure you do NOT lose the QR code which comes with your ticket purchase. I would screen shot and have it ready for the worker who comes around while you are in line. It also instructs you to have your ID on you which you should at all times while in Japan (it is the law). They did not ask me to show it, but maybe because they saw I had it out already.
-The tickets are 1000 JPY through online sales. I do believe there are 3rd party prices at unheard of jacked up prices so do ensure you are on top of the online ticket sales.
-To get to the museum from Tokyo, you need to hop on a train from the Shinjuku station on the Chuo East Line. The website instructs you to get off at Mitaka station where there are special yellow 'cat buses' leaving at stop No. 9 every 10-20 minutes. While this sounds fun, it's not an ACTUAL cat bus; just a yellow bus with cat illustrations. I would instead let off a stop earlier at Kichijoji station and walk through Inokashira Park. The park is quite romantic, shaded and has all the Ghibi vibes. It's ~15 minute walk to the museum from the station and easy-going.