Paul F H.
Yelp
Note: You can totally ignore the previous reviews (posted about ten years ago) as the Goldene Sonne reopened with a new chef and new management in May of 2022. Now on to my review. . .
Kudos to the Goldene Sonne and the new direction their chef is pursuing -- a high caliber, creative cuisine featuring fresh, locally sourced, organic ingredients. Diners may select the six course "prix fixe" menu, or they can select from the same dishes "ala carte." The chef creates a totally new menu every week depending upon what is seasonally available. Every dish is carefully composed and artfully plated. The chef is successfully emulating the kind of dishes you would find at many restaurants with a Michelin star. (See my photos.)
Our dinner started with fresh baked bread, a tasty compound butter, and and amuse bouche with red cabbage, grapes, and a sauce made with pumpkin (or squash). We selected a bottle of wine from a well organized list. The menu also included some wine suggestions that would pair well with the day's menu -- which helped us in deciding as most of the vineyards were regional and unfamiliar to us.
Next up was a generous slice of a vine ripened heirloom tomato with kohlrabi, tapenade dressing, pine nuts, and herbal garnishes.
The third course was a velvety leek and potato soup, finished with a drizzle of hazelnut oil and liebstöckel. The soup had to have been strained through a chinois multiple times. It was as smooth as silk.
The fish course featured poached monkfish and grilled eggplant with a basil sauce and tomato jam -- a very tasty combination.
A tender loin of lamb was the featured protein on the fifth dish of the evening. Along side of the lamb was a parsnip purée topped with shiitake mushrooms and tiny cauliflower florets. A piece of lentil bread (not unlike an American style cornbread in texture), a roasted spring onion and some herbal garnishes (including dill) completed the plate. The lamb was tender and moist -- perfectly cooked.
The finale was a beautifully composed dessert with butternut ice cream, shaum (espuma or foam), a small cake, and black currant sauce, garnished with toasted and caramelized pumpkin seeds and a beautiful, edible flower. Though every course was great, this was by far the most beautiful dish of the evening. All the flavors worked in harmony. It was my personal favorite.
Our friend who lives in the neighborhood and made the reservation for us is extremely happy for a restaurant of this caliber to open up. She looks forward to returning, and the next time we are visiting we would definitely love to come back again!