Larisa T
Google
Yes, it's expensive to visit and awkward to get to, but this results in fewer visitors and makes Gombe Stream a peaceful and uncrowded place and hopefully will help protect and preserve these magnificent primates.
I chose to stay 1 night at one of the four or so lakeside tents ($59 pp) but cheaper rest house accommodation was also available. The tent was great, with a comfortable bed, white bedlinen, hot shower, toilet, deck with chairs, power outlet (no power cuts during my stay). There were no bugs and I didn't drop down the anti-mozzie net.
I did one long trek in the morning with Ahadi who was a fantastic guide. We saw two families, followed them first on a path, then through the bush and were able to stay with and observe them for quite a long time (until they decided to take off) on a few occasions. It was pure joy watching the chimps, especially the youngsters and babies! They are so fascinating! The trek was everything I hoped to get from this trip. Very lucky with the weather - sunny and dry - even though it rains now almost every day. The trails were not really muddy (it rained the day before) or too slippery. The scenery was fantastic.
I organised the trip on my own: booked return Dar to Kigoma flights with Air Tansania, hotel in Kigoma for one night and researched the park fees in advance (these I believe are available on the TANAPA website, also blogs and forums. They haven't changed in a while.) What was not clear was how to arrange a boat transfer from Kigoma and its price with prices mentioned on the internet to be anywhere from $150 to $300 for the return journey. In the end, I managed to contact the Gombe visitor center in Kigoma and the super helpful Iddi aranged a TANAPA boat and a transfer from the airport to the TANAPA boat dock via WhatsApp. The costs are as follows: approx. $90 cash for the fuel (I paid TZS) payable to the boat captain, and $23.6 per boat + $23.6 per night waiting time to the park by card when you arrive in the park. The boat was very nice and the ride to the park very scenic and took approx. 1 hour 15 minutes one way.
Tipping (park guide, chimp finder / checker, boat captain) is expected, appreciated and well-deserved - all the park staff were great and a pleasure to deal with.
Even though Air Tanzania cancelled one of my flights and messed my park visit plans, it all worked very well for me in the end, and I had a superb experience in the park.