Will R.
Yelp
Hanai is bright and sunny. We walked into a mostly empty dining room at 6 on a Thursday and ordered the family-style fixed menu, which is a ton of food for $60. Cocktails are exceptional and the wine program is standard natty-and-unusual Dachi work. The dining room has a brightly coloured ceiling and whitewashed slats on the windows, and the servers were welcoming and helpful. Hawaiian food -- itself a big mashup of native, East Asian, and English/American influences -- really resonates in BC.
Five months in, you can tell the kitchen is hitting its stride. A plate of house pickles sung with bright flavours, sharp and distinct from vegetable to vegetable. A cold noodle salad came with umami-packed slices of dashi omelet that would have been remarkable even on their own. The kalua pork was the best mainland version I've had. For dessert, they served comforting little slices of pie made from ube and coconut custard.
A few of the ten-or-so dishes fell flat. Boiled peanuts were hit-and-miss, where the hits were richly infused with broth and the misses were, well, peanuts. Turnips and beef each came with amazing sauces, but were lacklustre themselves. The green salad was good, but very simple.
Why five stars instead of four? Hanai could have chosen a much easier, much more boring method of transplanting Hawaiian food into East Van. The menu forgoes many of the typical signifiers of "elevated" hipster chow, opting instead to draw on a deep taproot of nostalgia. Thank goodness -- Vancouver doesn't need another tartare with taro chips, or another amberjack crudo. What it does need is more of that kalua pork (preferably in plate lunch form, alongside a few of those boozy slushies, on a leisurely Saturday afternoon).
Ultimately, I like Hanai's food, but I like its project and point-of-view even more. Any new restaurant has a couple belly flops, but Hanai is making creative leaps with aplomb, and I'm eager to see where they go from here.