Steve K.
Yelp
This weekend with friends we toured Hillrock Distillery. Hillrock sells about 1,000 cases of spirits a year versus Maker's Mark's 1.2 million cases a year. Maker's Mark loses more booze a year than Hillrock makes.
Our tour guide was Timothy Welly, Head of Operations. Tim is passionate about all things whiskey. He's a walking encyclopedia.
The tastings: We tasted 5 Hillrock products neat. Yes, a drop of water does change the flavor profile for the better. The sniffer you take home. Can't explain why tiny bit of water makes a difference
Fun Learnings from the Bourbon Tour:
* Federal Taxes are paid at time that bourbon goes into the barrel. A tax credit is issued at time of bottling for any evaporation (about 2% per year, depending on barrel size, typically 53 gallon)
* New white oak barrel represents about 60% of the cost of making bourbon. No nails or glue are used in making a barrel. The practice of charring the barrel, a legal requirement to make bourbon today, began at a time when barrels had multiple purposes and charring the barrel was used to eliminate fish and other odors before its use to transport whiskey. That's part of the accidental birth of bourbon as we know it today.
* A few distilleries such as Hillrock finish their bourbon for a few weeks in used Sherry or wine barrels for added flavor and complexity
* Water is added to bourbon at time of bottling to achieve the stated alcohol level...but nothing else may be added to bourbon such as food coloring or inexpensive neutral grain spirits (vodka) as is added to "blended" Canadian Whisky (Canadian Club) or American blended whiskey (Seagram's Seven). [Editorial comment: If there was truth in labeling, US blended whiskey would be re-named Whiskey-flavored Vodka--that's what it really is]
* After the bourbon barrels are used up and may not be used again to make bourbon, bourbon barrels are broken down for shipping to Mexico or Scotland and re-assembled for aging of other spirits such as Tequila and Scotch.
* Hillrock claims that 80 percent of bourbon flavor comes from aging in the barrel and 20 percent from the strain of yeast and choice of grains used at time of production, such as corn, barley, wheat (softer flavor) and/or rye (spicier flavor). The ingredient list gets the attention but the barrel does the heavy lifting
* Relaxation of distillery taxes and licensing has made this all possible. Uncharacteristically for NY State, it is leading the way to promote a new industry. Kudos.
I was curious...here's my calculation of the retail value of a 53-gallon barrel of aged Hillrock Bourbon at maturity: $100 retail per bottle * 200627 mL / barrel (53 gallons) ÷ 750mL / bottle * (125 ÷ 92.6) proof adjustment (after water added) * 0.89 (6 years' 2% evaporation per yr) = $32,000 retail value per barrel of Hillrock Solera Bourbon
We saw one wall of 55 barrels...that would be worth $1.75mm at retail!
Terrific tour, and delightful product. At the end of the tour, we took out a loan and bought our favorite bourbon. With bourbon purchase, the tour is free...only pay tour sales tax.
Tip: A fine choice for lunch is The Farmers Wife, 2.5 miles away, in Ancramdale.