Matt M.
Yelp
The drive up to Hirsch was quite amazing. It took us through the morning fog of the Russian River Valley, up through Monte Rio, and along the Russian River to Highway 1. Following the rugged Sonoma coastline for a spell and then up into the coastal mountains, we finally found ourselves at the Hirsch Vineyards. But not before mile after mountain mile of one-lane road, hairpin curves, and even driving through backyards- ruins of crashed cars notwithstanding. It's a great way to bring the term "Far Sonoma Coast" to life.
Upon arrival we were greeted by our hostess, Tess. We took a stroll around the vineyards, starting in the original OVY vineyard blocks- originally planted to Pinot Noir and Riesling back in 1980 before eventually being converted to all Pinot Noir. From there we talked about some of the viticultural practices of Hirsch and viewed the expanse of vineyards spread across hilltops off in the distance- with the Pacific Ocean in the horizon. Hirsch is only 3 miles from the coast, with the San Andreas fault lying between it and the ocean.
Back at the winery, we toured the open-top fermenters and the barrel room, as we were joined by winemaker Ross Cobb. Ross was great, entertaining questions about his approach to natural fermentation, and showing us the 14 gallon glass demijohns in which his Chardonnay is partially fermented. Finally, we headed into the office to taste a couple of wines they had lying around. Thanks to Tess for setting everything up, and to both Tess and Ross for being so hospitable. This was a great stop, a fascinating departure from the rest of the wine trail circuit. My only regret is not allowing more time before the second appointment of the day. Our 10:00 appointment was followed by a 1:00 back in the Russian River Valley- an hour and fifteen minute drive back. We had to hustle to get back- bottoming out on a random speed hump coming down the mountain and almost nailing a sheep!
The Wine-
-2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast- Partial oak, glass, and stainless steel fermentation. Wild yeast fermentation. Full malo. Unfiltered. Neutral oak aging. Earthy nose with pungent notes of aged cheeses and bright apple. Earthy on the palate with bright fruit and mineral balance. Good acid and a long finish---excellent---$50.
-2007 San Andreas Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast- A ruby color with good clarity. Gamey, cherry, and forest floor notes initiate velvety strawberry and cherry fruit soaked in silky tannins. Nice earthy fruit finish---excellent---I could see this further developing the depth of flavors with a few years time---$60.
