Annalisa D.
Yelp
I have been a fan of Dr. Paul George's HistoryMiami tours for years. I've taken them on foot, by bus and by boat. One of my favorites is the Miami River Cruise, and here's why. Although Miami is known for its beaches, the river is its birthplace. The river gives the city its name - derived from the Mayaimi people who lived in the area prior to colonization. The river is home to Miami's oldest neighborhoods, its storied past, its colorful characters, its rum runners, gator wrestlers and old-time river rats. The Miami River is the heart and soul of the city. Its banks are rich with ancient artifacts, hidden neighborhoods and its history is full of lore about grit, lawlessness and persistence. Sailing along the Miami River evokes the bygone days of its pioneering past.
Last Saturday night, I took the Moon Over Miami River Cruise (the evening version of the tour). The boat was full and we departed right on time at 7pm. As most Miamians know (or should know!), Dr. Paul George is our city's foremost historian. Dr. George welcomed everyone aboard and launched into the history of Miami, beginning with Bayside Marketplace and PortMiami-the largest passenger port in the world. As beautiful as Miami is, the water vantage point underscores the scope and majesty of the city's stunning skyline. As the boat cruised past Bayfront Park, Dr. George recounted the history of this bustling, 32-acre park, officially opened in 1925 and redesigned almost 40 years ago by famed landscape architect, Isamu Noguchi. Approaching the mouth of the river, the many joggers, dog walkers and strollers along the left and right bank Riverwalk point to the resurgence of Miami's urban core. As we passed under the Brickell Avenue Bridge - the perpetrator of frequent traffic delays, but quite a gorgeous sight from the river - Dr. George pointed out the 53-foot bronze "Pillar of History" monument. It chronicles the lives of the Tequesta Indians (the earliest known inhabitants of the area) along the column with the imposing sculpture, "Tequesta Family" atop.
The many new developments, hotels, condominiums and restaurants which we passed speak to how rapidly life along the river is changing. The old stalwarts, Garcia's Seafood Grille & Fishmarket and Casablanca Seafood Bar & Grill are still there. Many new restaurants, Seaspice, Crust and more, have joined them and all were full of people out enjoying the sultry Miami evening. While cruising up the river, under its many bridges and lush foliage, Dr. George focused on the northern bank which is resplendent with these new eateries and towering feats of architecture. Old Miami peaks through with historic Lummus Park, home to the Wagner Homestead and Fort Dallas barracks, still standing and affording us a view of Miami's earlier days. The nearby Scottish Rite Temple, built in the 1920s is an early and imposing example of Art Deco in Miami. As the boat cruised towards historic Spring Garden, shrouded by beautiful Poinciana and fine banyan trees, Dr. George entertained us with stories of the early settlers of this charming neighborhood. Home to many frame and masonry vernacular houses as well as Craftsman, and Mission, this is the oldest, intact, single family neighborhood still remaining along the Miami River. As we headed towards the civic center area, we caught glimpses of future developments, on the cusp of breaking ground - Dr. George had the 411 on those too! Once the boat reversed course to head home, Dr. George spoke about the south bank of the river, beginning with Sewell Park, named after a former mayor of the city from the early 1920s, and home to an impressive variety of native trees.
As night fell, we passed Grove Park and Riverside, two of the river's oldest neighborhoods. Dr. George spoke fondly of bygone days, sprinkling his monologue with anecdotes about such city luminaries as Julia Tuttle, Mary Brickell, Henry Flagler and Everglades champion Marjory Stoneman Douglas. He pointed out the meticulously restored Miami River Inn, built in the early 1900s. "The Ladies" which comprise the Miami River Inn are 4 cotton candy-colored wood-framed cottages that recall "Old Florida." As the twinkling lights of the city welcomed us back, Dr. George called our attention to the famed Miami Circle, the only known evidence of a prehistoric permanent settlement on the East Coast.
The Miami River Tour is a relaxing and most informative tour which contrasts gleaming new Miami with Miami of yore. Dr. George is full of energy and there isn't a detail he can't recall. He is truly remarkable. He peppers his talk with fun facts and delightful details and one is entertained the entire two hours. The boat passes under several bridges along its route, Dr. George even has stories about the bridges! If you haven't taken this tour, do it - it's MARVELOUS!! Light snacks and drinks are available for purchase onboard the Island Queen and departure is from Bayside Marketplace.