Jody S.
Yelp
Our expectations were high since we'd read our guidebooks beforehand: "the palatial parador is Santiago's top hotel" (Lonely Planet), "one of the most renowned paradors in Spain" (1000 Places to See), "one of the world's most luxurious" (Hunter Travel), "one of the world's grandest hotels" (Eyewitness Guide), "irresistibly luxurious rooms [...] worth every penny" (Rough Guide).
Even though our first glimpse wasn't after a long pilgrimage but just after a short uphill taxi ride from the train station, we were still overwhelmed. And on each day of our stay we would marvel anew at one of the world's grandest squares framed by the Cathedral, a palace, a college, and our five-star home-away-from-home.
But we first had the challenge of finding the perfect room. Santiago (what a fitting name!), Susana, and Rosa at reception provided five-star service from the very start; knowledgeable staff members like José and Dolores provided us with glimpses of the range of rooms and invaluable historical tidbits about the extraordinary building.
Our favorite was the junior suite 232 (one of four junior suites available) just below the Cardinal's suite with the same panoramic view, but we also had a chance to see the other junior suites: view of the Cathedral (203), high ceilings and beautiful white marbled bath (320), views of the interior patios (233).
Our first two nights were in a standard double room (314) with one large bed and a view onto a side street. We moved to our favorite junior suite for the rest of our stay: a foyer with two desks - perfect for our laptop and tablets - lit by day through a window with scenic view, a floor lamp providing a warmly lit cozy welcome each evening. The bedroom area had two four-poster canopied beds that pushed together let us sleep in historic surroundings perfectly, a sofa for lounging and reading, four chairs, a floor lamp for the evening - the windows with the panoramic view of the countryside provided lots of light during the day - two large clothes closets and a flat screen TV. The wonderfully spacious bathroom with floor to ceiling marble walls and beautiful flooring had two basins and a partially separate toilet area.
We got to know all four floors of the entire parador and also the four beautiful courtyards during our stay and noticed the successful integration of modern conveniences like elevators and internet into a unique historic setting. The areas opened to the public and those only accessible to hotel guests were all spotless. It's amazing to stroll through the courtyards every day to your room, passing the royal chapel and eavesdropping on the concerts, weddings, and events, admiring the art on the walls, hearing the floors creak just a bit in passing. And you just have to walk out the front door to meet the constant stream of pilgrims arriving after their long hikes to applause and hugs and tears of joy - a truly magical place unlike any other we've ever experienced.
The prices vary a lot from week to week, but by booking early and making use of the specials on the official parador website, our half board arrangement turned out to be very reasonably priced indeed.
But it wasn't only the thrill of living in a historic building that made our stay so splendid. The real treasure in this parador is the service. Tania, Estanfanía, Lucía, Daniel as part of the breakfast staff always had time for a chat while serving other guests in the comfortable breakfast room with views of the Cathedral and of the surrounding countryside. We enjoyed the fresh fruit, eggs, of course the delicious jamón, freshly squeezed orange juice, along with Galician and north Spanish specialties like sobaos pasiegos, and either a pot of café-con-leche at our favorite table by the window or Daniel showing off his barista talents by designing a cappuccino especially for me. We mentioned in passing at Sunday breakfast that we had been awakened by wedding party music the evening before. Evidently the very attentive staff had passed on the news of our red eyes: We found upon our return that evening a delicious Santiago Tarta cake in our room. And upon returning after our final dinner with many farewells to the friends we'd made, we found a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, compliments of the house (thanks especially to Marcelino from Dos Reyes Restaurant)!
Of course one could claim that such royal treatment is reserved for guests who stay longer than a few nights or was due to my Spanish husband, who can be very charming when he wants to be. But we were also able to observe during our people-watching time in the lobbies and restaurants the superb service to other guests too. And we smiled when eavesdropping on staff conversations about successfully meeting the challenges of "challenging" guests.
After two weeks we can confirm whole heartedly the praise in our guidebooks, and we will never forget the wonderful people who turned a world famous grand hotel into a very special home-away-from-home for us.