M. B.
Yelp
I don't usually give a hotel five stars (at least until I stay at The Ritz in Paris, which will never happen,) because it's so hard to rate them. But according to my own personal rating system, the Sylvia Beach is worthy of all five.
We had a family reunion here. (I have a very small family - 14 people in all.) My husband and I splurged on the Mark Twain and my sister and her beau were in the Colette. The rest of the family was in Steinbeck, Stein, Dickinson, etc. There are 20 rooms in all.
This is an older building, very atmospheric, and looks exactly like your expectations of a beach hotel. The lobby contains the registration desk, staffed by very helpful and friendly people, and a small gift shop with books, scarves, coffee mugs, jewelry, etc., relevant to the literary theme of the hotel.
There is NO WIFI. There are NO PHONES. There are NO TVs. When you book, the records are kept on paper, and you get a paper receipt when you leave. No problem with any of that. But there is also NO ELEVATOR, and the hotel covers four levels, so be aware that you'll be lugging your gear up and down the stairs.
Most of the rooms are standard sized. All have ensuite baths, except the Kesey room, which has four twin beds and a private bathroom down the hall. Some of the standard rooms have the sink in the room and the loo and tub-shower separate. Some have a queen, some have twins, and at least one (Oscar Wilde) has a double. All have a good view of the beach and ocean.
Three rooms, Twain, Colette, and Christie, are significantly larger. They occupy the west, oceanfront, end of the building. Twain has a private terrace on the south side that also fronts the ocean. It also has a wood-burning fireplace, all laid for us, but we didn't use it. Our bathroom was self-contained, with a clawfoot tub. What we hadn't realized when we booked was that it has a hand-held shower and no tile or shower curtains. There was a heady-duty wooden shelf across the tub for sitting purposes, but it was hard not to spray the room.
Each room is done up in the style of the writer it's named after - Rowling has a sorting hat and an owl. We had the complete works of Mark Twain in our room, lots of Twain memorabilia, and a knotted rope on the outside of the door that told you it was the Twain room. (The other rooms have name-plates on or next to the door.) The bed was so tall that we needed the provided step-stool to get in and out of it, but it was a handy height for gift-wrapping.
One flight up is the lounge. It spans the west side of the building and is full of comfy sofas and chairs, all with good reading lamps. Also a wood-burning fireplace. And right off it is the game room, with a big table and at least five dozen jigsaw puzzles. Our gang, after recovering from the initial shock of no Wifi, was in there until 1:30 AM working on an impossible puzzle. This is where the coffee service is, too.
The library is above that. The books are shelved higgledy-piggledy, to force you to browse. There are a couple of chairs up there, but I never saw anyone there. Everyone read in the lounge.
The restaurant, Tables of Content, is one floor below the lobby. The tables seat eight people, so strangers sit together. Breakfast consists of a buffet table of mostly sweet things - bakery goodies, fruit, cereals, sweet breads, juices, etc. (I suggested to the reception clerks that they offer non-sweet choices as well.) There is also a hot cooked breakfast - one day it was huevos rancheros, and the next day it was pancakes. If you aren't a sweets-eater, you may have a problem.
We had our big family dinner in the restaurant. Service was leisurely - a single older server for the entire room - but the food was delicious. Every evening, there are three offerings - meat, seafood, vegetarian - and set sides, which are served family-style. Special requests are accommodated if made early enough. It's open to the public, with reservations. $32 prix fixe.
There is an elderly house cat, Shelley, who has the run of the hotel. He has a climbing tower at the top of the stairs and you can find him snoozing all over the hotel. If you leave your room door open, he will come in and make himself comfortable. If you are cat-phobic or have allergies, keep this in mind. The rooms are clean enough that allergies are kept at bay, and he doesn't go into the dining-room.
You can walk all over Nye Beach from here. There are restaurants, bars, and some shops two blocks away, and it's a wonderful beach for walking. We saw people walking their dogs on the sand at 6:30 AM.
All in all, this is a comfortable, relaxing place to stay. If you're looking for uniformity, Wifi, TV, in-room coffee, and the rest of the Hilton amenities, you probably won't be happy. But if you want a clean, comfortable, unique room, with an ocean view, rattly doors, a friendly cat, and relief from modernity, this is the place for you. Bring a book.