John B.
Yelp
With rare exceptions - think Godfather II - a sequel never measures up to the original. So with a bit of skepticism, I dined at the new Il Capriccio.
Over a 38-year run Il Cap became an iconic dining destination. I was a regular. When chef/owner Richie Baron and his team were firing on all cylinders, I could close my eyes and imagine I was in a hilltop town in Italy. The food, the wine, the service and the ambience combined for a transformative experience.
First things first. Richie Baron is not involved in the new Il Capriccio. Baron reached a personal fork-in-the-road when the pandemic forced him to close in 2020. He had been planning to retire. As the closure dragged on, Baron decided the time was right to hang up his apron.
Enter Michael Chapman - the owner of The Glenville Stops in Allston - who purchased the name, wine inventory and a trailer load of fixtures/furnishings. New space was secured at The Merc Building. In May, the new Il Capriccio opened its doors.
The Il Cap "vibe" was an important part of the former restaurant. White tablecloths; soft lighting; muted two-tone colors; windowed partitions that created intimate seating; curated music. None of that is present at the new Il Capriccio.
Chapman has made gestures toward recreating the old "vibe", but those gestures fall flat. The two-tone colors are there. But that's all. The odd layout, the open/exposed ceilings, the Home Depot quality of materials, contribute to a sterile ambience.
The bar - a hub of camaraderie and social buzz in the old place - is a shell of its old self. Eight seats sit at a wooden counter that feels more like suburban home finished basement than upscale bar. Lighting is ghastly - more interrogation room than intimate lounge. Tables and chairs are TGI Friday's quality, and a service station/employee wash sink lurks menacingly in an open area toward the rear of the space.
The space boasts big windows. But Waltham got the better end of the deal. Better to look into the restaurant from the outside than to look out on convenience stores, smoke shops and neon lights on one side and a bare parking lot on the other. The completely covered and blacked-out windows at the old location are missed - it was always cozy and comforting.
I don't know who "curated" the dining playlist. I heard everything from far eastern spa music to elevator jingles.
The menu remains unchanged. The classics - including the soufflé di porcini - are there. With most kitchen staff holding over to the new location, execution is reliable even if occasionally uninspired. No doubt, Baron's absence in the kitchen can be felt.
The wine list remains a strength. No surprise, given that the wine inventory was part of the restaurant purchase, and Jan Novak remains at the helm of the wine program. It remains to be seen, however, if Chapman will have the foresight and will to continue to invest in the wine program.
Service on all of my visits was prompt, courteous and professional. Again, no surprise. Most of the dining room staff has stayed on board, many with 25 years of experience.
A meal at the new Il Capriccio will be satisfactory - as long as current staff remains in place. That is not a given. Some staff seem perplexed and frustrated by the new ownership. And, at these prices, is "satisfactory" good enough?
Chapman appears to be a fanatic for detail. The problem is where that fanaticism is directed. The owner can be seen polishing glasses behind the bar and carefully arranging them inch-by-inch. If only that focus could be redirected toward improving the aesthetics of the restaurant and the morale of his team.
I'd cede control to the staff that understands what made Il Capriccio a success for 38 years. They are the best bet for extending the restaurant's success into the future. For now, the jury is out ...
