MRFORTS
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As a designer of interiors both residential and commercial and having worked on restaurants in the past, Junior is a room I instantly wished I’d been apart of. I could go on (and on about the things that visually and vibe-wise fire on all cylinders here but I’ll leave that part off here.)
As I said, you’re greeted warmly, and the bustle of the bar meets you as drinks get shaken and spun along with a pleasant din of those around it. It’s a great initial impression.
Once seated, any one of Junior’s excellent staff is along. As is that evening’s manager. As is Jr’’s excellent somm. A sous might drop off a plate. Chef Phil might. It’s a space of acute attention and many touches both on the plate and at the table and its both welcomed and done with a light, easy hand.
We’ve been several times and as with any restaurant at this level, servers, bar tenders, staff all remember your name, what was chatted about last visit. It’s things like these that make a spot feel singular in one’s heart. A deeply comforting third space.
The food. Ah. The food though. I could take more space talking through each plate we’ve had on our visits, but I’ll narrow this down to some absolute stand outs and leave the rest for you to discover.
A small perfect plate of two oysters, served per oyster so scale up accordingly; perfectly briny and chubby with a deep green beautiful mignonette of Serrano, cucumber and celery over top as a first bite, along side a beautifully icy, cloudy dirty gin martini is the move. Ya gotta.
Next, another small plate of sweet corn barbajuan with marinated peppers and caper leaves is superb. Beautiful, harmonious. We ordered two rounds.
The bread at Junior, as same with the bread at both of chef Krajeck’s other two spots (both perennial faves with us since their respective openings) is elite level. This being for Junior a farro verde porridge served with flower (both dried and fresh) butter. Keep it around throughout the entire meal. As it is just right to mop up the next must, their heirloom tomato carpaccio. Obviously, as is most every ingredient procured and cook by the Junior team, a seasonal plate but when those tomatoes are in, this simple yet precise presentation absolutely bangs.
Plates cleaned, table cleared comes the main act. Hearth grilled lobster mushrooms and preserved lemon. Earthy, umami perfection. Nicely balanced. Just right.
The Bavette with mistake jam, sliced not too thin and au jus on the plate. Unfussy, classic and for only an occasional red meat eater, hits all the notes one wants in a steak. Make no mistake about it,..
A good simple green salad, bright and herby and a Nicoise, another absolute classic,
And a little insider info, frites are an off menu item and should be gotten. Served classically with mayo which is the only way to have frites.
Everything at Junior eats as it presented, super clean and with little fuss or unnecessary, cluttering flourishes. There’s a playfulness to the menu and the cooking that feels like free jazz. Knowing all the notes by rote but pushing and flexing at the edges and the shape of what one might expect. The cooking is done quietly and confidently, The space is intimate and the kitchen is a pleasure to watch (even the clean up at the end of service). The team there, from front to back of house, is talented, friendly with authenticity but not the stereotypical Southern howdy hon thing. As we’ve returned, the space itself is finding new ways to expand on its purpose, as on a recent night, a disco ball was hung, smoke machines smoked and a dj got to work. Its evolving and as with any incredible spot that feels special and as if you want to guard it (we can call it Bourdain’s Dilemma), this is game changing spot for this city. Could’t be more stoked to see where Junior goes but hopefully doesn’t grow up too fast. Maybe we’ll even see one of those little puffywhite stars on a red plaque sometime not so long from now. Until then, get yourself there asap.
