Kinn Studio—Appointment Only

Kinn Review - Koreatown - Los Angeles - The Infatuation

"It's easy to have a special day in Koreatown. You can bowl, golf, eat bottomless Korean BBQ, belt out “Halo” at karaoke, sweat in a sauna at 2am, take taekwondo lessons, get an absurd manicure, and buy $30 grapes (depending on the season). The neighborhood has a venue for just about anything, but still, there’s no place quite like Kinn, the first permanent Korean fine-dining spot in Koreatown. It’s a whole new Koreatown experience, and at $72 per person, it’s one of the most affordable tasting menus in LA. We don't know anyone who can throw a dinner party like Kinn’s chef, Ki Kim, who has worked at high-profile NYC spots like and . He’s brought that fine dining experience to this nondescript room on 6th street, with a seven-course prix-fixe meal. Some of the dishes are unexpected riffs on classic Korean recipes, while others are completely new inventions—and all of the food comes plated like it has its own stylist. The tasting menu at Kinn changes seasonally, but you can expect whatever seven dishes that come out of the kitchen to be full of surprises. Like a high-speed roller coaster or Frank Ocean's 39-second interlude “Fertilizer,” you'll end up wishing each bite lasted a bit longer, but the high points make the whole ride worth it. The sea urchin pizza is a one-bite explosion involving seaweed and several pellets of shiny fish roe, presented in a greasy pizza box. There’s also a creamy steamed egg and clam custard dish piled high with nutty romanesco and topped with spinach chips shaved so thin they’re almost translucent. It’s a savory salt bomb that represents a perfect balance of land and sea. Note that reservations aren’t mandatory, but we’ve seen walk-ins turned away during peak dinner hours. The dining room’s only real decor involves a handful of candlelit tables and a giant floral wreath that hangs above the long wooden bar, which is the ideal spot to sit. The crowd is a mix of anniversary dates, birthday groups, and solo diners who probably rush through airports in floor-length trench coats. And unlike most fine dining spots around town, the overall pacing here is perfect—you never feel rushed, but you also won’t have enough downtime to watch an episode of The Real Housewives between courses. Our absolute favorite dish is the $22 octopus add-on (which we consider a mandatory eighth course). Our server mentioned that each piece of octopus is braised in its own juices and then flash-torched till it's golden brown. The result is crispy octopus skin that's so crunchy, we thought it was battered and fried. Not all of the dishes at Kinn are as memorable as the octopus, mostly because they occasionally prioritize creativity over flavor. There's the black cod served with a jus made from the fish's own bones, which tastes more like palate cleanser than a flavor-packed dipping sauce. Then comes a tiny scoop of bibimbap served with mussels and steamed vegetables that could use a bit more spice. And the wagyu steak — tender, medium-rare, and pre-sliced — is served with a side of gravy that smile's back at you. It’s objectively cute, but left us wanting more gravy and less theater. Kinn is a breath of fresh air, even in a neighborhood full of novelties. It's a casual tasting menu place that's perfect for people who usually despise the format’s pomp and pretense. Come here for fine dining without all the bullsh*t. " - Nikko Duren