Randy S.
Yelp
Tokyo, Kioicho. November 2024.
This restaurant has only been open since 1939. I say "only" jokingly. When it opened it immediately became a choice of many of Tokyo's literary greats because of the influence of a noted ceramic artist and culinary, Rosanjin. It has been in its present location since the end of WWII.
The building stands out as a sukiya, in the shoin zukuri style of architecture, among all the modern buildings and skyscrapers in Kioicho. The solid stone base is impressive. The interior is cleanly laid out with spare shoji divided tatami rooms on two floors.
What stands out in the Kaiseki is their selection of the highest quality seasonal ingredients and products and how they try to maximize the flavors. The respect for the food is tasted - flavors are added to complement or enhance an ingredient. The dish-ware used and the plating of the food is intended to create a harmonious balance that creates anticipation.
The hassun, a trio of a shime saba maki, koichi roe wrapped with kombu, a piece of karasumi topped with a plain slice of daikon, was a stunning taste of the season. Pretty but not fancy to look at. Autumn momiji leaves on a white plate. A young leaf of the lotus plant and pine needles as garnish. The taste of dried mullet roe alongside a clean fresh vegetable is not uncommon in japan, but this piece was really good. The savory tart pickle of the saba and the sweet tart vinegar of the shari rice combined was as good as I can remember ever having.
Not everything works. Beef in a kaiseki is very uncommon, just because it was traditionally hard to get a high quality product and its lack of seasonality. In deference to modern tastes they have added a sort of supplemental course - susume zakana - of Hokkaido A5 Wagyu. It was an outstanding three bites, but it felt forced in the meal progression.
Whether this the best kaiseki you will have in Tokyo is very much a matter of preference and perception. But this was, without doubt, an outstanding meal in its simplicity and execution.