Ron W.
Yelp
Sushi has finally arrived in the main stream when a non-Japanese family sidles up to the Sushi Bar to celebrate their privileged and entitled 9 year old's birthday with 4 Omakase Dinners.
This place serves fish to the community without reservations, so, be prepared it's the queue for you. But it moves quickly as the Chefs slice and dice in a blur.
Koi has been a stalwart for 40 + years because the fish is impeccably sourced and Chef/Owner Kunio Go is there early and stays late. After all those years this truly charming fellow is still on site overseeing the kitchen, working the room like a Vegas lounge act, hugging the ladies and counting the money although now he spends more time counting the ladies and hugging the money.
The decor is somewhere between a 60's Coffee Shop and Chiba Chic. Several taxidermied fish hang on the walls, booths line two dining rooms made of clear lacquered wood and feature muted tones.
There is a bustling Sushi Bar manned by Ryori-cho/Itamae and there will be a butt on every stool at the opening bell. Plus, the fish is as fresh as that 9 year kid ordering specials for his nodding approving parents and bored sibling.
The Staff: All young guns who are as enthusiastic and bubbly as effervescent Sake and all in constant motion like a Pachinko Machine.
Who's in the house besides the know it all 9 year old? Mostly non-Japanese, locals who are within walking or walker distance.
The Bar: The usual suspects for Japanese Beer, a few wines just in case, and a solid selection of Sake. A whole page of Sake in large font gives the appearance of many choices but there are really plenty of options and something for anyone to test their luck at a Sobriety Check Point.
The Food: The Oysters rotate depending what's hot, what's not, what hits the spot, and what's got rot. The Hammersley Oysters come from a hot bed of cool oyster beds in Massachusetts. Misty Points come from Virginia. Pacific Oysters and Miyagis come from Japan.
I thought a Fat Bastard was that 300 pounder baring his plumber's butt and swaying in front of you at the Eagles concert. Nope, it's a monster mutant Oyster requiring you to unhinge your jaw like an Anaconda swallowing a Pig to enjoy them, and you will.
The night I dined at Koi I had the Sushi Master gave me a couple of baller beasts from Washington State. Those prehistoric creatures were the size of a Russet Potato and absolutely wonderful. If they have'em, you have'em.
The Snapper Sampler Sushi Tray had 4 varieties one night and 8 varieties another night. And while both were great it's the luck of the fish draw as to which sampler is ampler.
The Yellowtail Sushi was still wiggling when the Chef laid a slice out over the knob of perfect Vinegar'd Rice. Delicious.
The Spider Roll was as big as Andrew Whitworth's forearm. The Roll had that kitchen sink stuffed inside feel to it. The Soft Shell Crab went directly from freezer to the fryer. And if you fry it I will buy it. So should you. Crispy is America's favorite flavor, isn't it?
Most all seafood at sushi restos has been frozen alive and or dead at some point. This Soft Shell Crab Roll was wonderful and in The Chef's capable hands was brought back from the beyond to taste crunchy and perfectly fresh.
The Chawanmushi (Steamed Egg Custard), sadly fell a hair short of the mark. It should be cooked covered in a Bain Marie (water bath) in order to gently get it to set. This version was broken and had curdled. Okay, it's an acquired skill like a French Omelet.
Oh, and do have the Green Salad with both legendary dressings. (Sesame and/or Peanut). If you yucker the recipe for either dressing out of the owner you will be amply rewarded by adoring fans. Alas, not even Chef Kunio's kids know the recipe. The mystery of the salad magic makes this destination all the more attractive and inviting.
The menu us huge. Can't decide what to eat? Snuggle up to that 9 year old Omakase Maven and let the little savant impress you.
Don't be coy at Koi...it's all gonna be great.