Mar K.
Yelp
Inspired by our first visit to this restaurant run by a family of chefs a year ago, some long-time friends who had flown in from NM and KS, a special local guest, and I enjoyed one of the most skillfully prepared meals in recent memory.
First impressions were great: was a bright sunny day on their outdoor patio
where bright, flowery tablecloths and friendly planters made for a welcoming vibe. The regular menu was being elevated by special seasonal offerings and as luck would have it lead Chef Jeff -- Hardinger is a Pacific Northwest treasure -- was at the woodfire oven; his partner and her sister are the other chefs in the kitchen. Asked for his picks on a four course meal plus coconut sticky rice with mango for dessert. What arrived was the Pork Sausage & Cucumber appetizer, classic Pad Thai, wood fired Salmon in Panang Curry with Sea Breen, the Hamachi Carpaccio with Watermelon, and of course the Coconut Sticky Rice With Mango.
The restaurant's social media posts about their new Hamachi Carpaccio actually helped inspire the road trip, and it delighted. Beautifully cut tiny watermelon cubes accented the natural saltiness of thinly sliced raw Hamachi, and absolutely loved the gentle crunch of the Sea Breen that he accented the dish with.
The salmon was perfectly prepared so that it held its own with integrity amid the rich flavor of the Panang Curry. But have to say, my favorite was the sweet *Champagne Mango* slices served in coconut milk poured over warm Coconut Sticky Rice garnished with Sesame seeds. It was what brought us back the next day for lunch.
This time we decided to try the braised lamb shank because we heard that was the Chef's favorite of the specials being offered from the wood fired oven. It was in Massaman Curry and the flavorful tenderness of the lamb could not be beat.
We also ordered the Garlic Eggplant Basil with Tofu -- and it instantly became a table favorite dish: we recommend everyone try it. The eggplant was prepared in such a way that the meat slipped off the skin while still holding a firmness to it. (Anyone who has tried to cook eggplant will understand the miracle in texture that represents. Reminded me that this is why we go out to eat so we can taste things as they are supposed to be prepared. Not as they often turn out in our kitchens...)
Then there was the Bao aka Asian "taco" appetizer that was part of the seasonal specials. This where you have to understand the bell that rings for some of us when you offer steamed bao on the menu. Usually it is with thrice-cooked pork dowsed with a version of hoisin sauce, or wrapping tender slices of still-warm Peking Duk that bao is served. So imagine our delight when we saw that Krob Krua was serving bao with fried softshell crab. When we tried to order it we were told they had run out of softshell crab but that chef was willing to substitute the soft shelled crab with fried Pacific oysters. As a lifelong oyster lover, that was a perfect solution. What came out exceeded the Peking Duck experience at the one-star Michelin Chinese restaurant reviewed earlier this year. I said what I said.
Whereas typically thinly sliced green onions accompany the duck meat, in this version house pickled daikon & carrots, greens and slivers of micro greens lavished the plump, juicy fried oysters that exploded with flavor, turning a single bite into an eye-opening, head-shaking mouth orgasm. (I said what I said). Even the hesitant not-pro-oyster friends at the table were converted after a bite, eventually finishing off their own. So good was the fried oyster bao.
Never underestimate the power of comfort food that is elevated by extreme culinary understanding of how flavors go together, and tremendous skill in preparation that lets the ingredients do their magic un-fussed with.
And now Krob Krua's Instagram boasts that a new pork and kimchi version of the bao appetizer has emerged from the kitchen. Could anything be more perfect? Methinks not. Run don't walk.
