Irina Fukui
Google
Our pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo trails began at Kumano Hongu Taisha, and it felt like both a natural and symbolic choice. In the tradition of the three Kumano shrines, Hongu represents the «present» — the moment that is lived here and now. For me, as a practicing Buddhist, this was a profound spiritual experience: the journey begins with the very moment where life, breath, and meaning exist.
The shrine stands deep within the mountains of the Kii region, surrounded by dense forests and rivers that have been considered sacred for centuries. The landscape is both harsh and generous: the rushing waters of the Kumano River, the mist shrouding the peaks, and the thick greenery all give it a sense of being apart from the everyday world. It is no wonder that since ancient times people have come here seeking purification and renewal.
The mythology of Kumano is closely tied to deities of death and rebirth. Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the storm god, is worshipped here, as is Izanami, the primordial mother associated with the realm of the dead. Yet through these figures also runs the idea of renewal — entry into the «Pure Land», where past and future converge. It is no coincidence that emperors of the Heian period came here to pray for rebirth and the salvation of the soul.
The history of the shrine has not been without hardship. In 1889, a flood destroyed the original sanctuary that stood on the banks of the Kumano River. Since then, the main shrine has been rebuilt on higher, safer ground, where it remains today. On the site of the former shrine now stand the great Otorii — the largest shrine gates in Japan. There is a rule that the inner sacred area should not be photographed, and it is important to respect that.
We traveled between the main shrines mostly by bus, walking only parts of the route, and this became a reflection for me on what truly defines a pilgrimage. Yes, in the past people walked these mountains for weeks, but what matters is not the means of travel, but what you carry within. This journey is made with the heart. Each visit to a shrine, each prayer, and each pause became part of an inner journey, regardless of how I physically arrived there.
The Kumano Kodo is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and to walk (or ride) along it is to join a thousand-year-old tradition. Beginning at Hongu means beginning with the present — with the living moment that opens the path to awareness. Pilgrims then usually continue to Hayatama Taisha (the past) and finish at Nachi Taisha (the future). This order carries a deep inner logic: to live the present, to recognize the past, and to face the future.
