Jeffrey L.
Google
A visit to La Clé des Champs raises questions about the criteria behind awarding a Bib Gourmand. While the restaurant makes a strong visual impression with its tasteful interior, pleasant ambiance and good-looking plates, the essence of a good dining experience, namely the quality of the food and the service, falls short.
The starter, ray wing in cucumber aspic, was simply flavorless and failed to please four out of seven guests. Though the presentation was refined, the dish lacked depth, seasoning and any memorable character. Portions were only half-eaten before being set aside. Without us giving any feedback, the gérant casually remarked, “Was it not quite to your taste?”, a polite comment but one that lacked any real curiosity or follow-up. The Riesling Bollenberg served with the starter, however, was a highlight: fresh, well-balanced and thoughtfully chosen.
The main course, duck with a cassis jus served with celeriac mousseline and sweet-and-sour vegetables, had potential but arrived lukewarm, and parts were even cold. The flavors were acceptable, but a dish loses its impact without proper temperature or finesse.
Service was, unfortunately, inconsistent at best. A bottle of Madiran was opened and placed on a side table, but not poured. When the main course was served, all the staff disappeared from the floor, leaving us without wine in our glasses. We ended up getting the bottle ourselves and pouring it. This should have been done before the main course was served — as is standard in attentive service — not as an afterthought left entirely to the guests. Later on, the gérant even moved the bottle further away, requiring us to retrieve it again. A missed opportunity, not only in terms of hospitality, but also in the potential sale of a second bottle.
Thankfully, the dessert was well executed and balanced, offering a small redeeming moment.
In the end, disappointment dominated. Expectations were high, and rightfully so given the restaurant’s profile, but execution was lacking where it matters most.
Conclusion: La Clé des Champs excels in presentation but falters in execution. A missed opportunity, especially considering the prices and the recognition it bears. Hopefully the team will take this feedback to heart. The potential is there, but there is work to be done.
