Klaus K.
Google
The restaurant is difficult to reach at first. There is a large construction site around the unusual skyscraper. Once you arrive, you are treated to a spectacular view from the 25th floor. In the distance, the 800m Burj rises into the sky.
The restaurant manager gives me an extremely warm welcome, and this continues throughout the evening with the entire service staff. Exceptional. From my table, I have a good view of the open kitchen with about 10 chefs, and I am welcome to come closer at any time and watch the chefs at work. I enjoy a Panda's Fizz cocktail – the non-alcoholic accompaniments are excellent throughout the evening.
About the food (my subjective opinion! The rating refers to my expectations of a restaurant in this category and price range. +/0/– should be self-explanatory):
The three amuse bouches are great: a warm mascarpone ball, a crustino with carrot, and a cracker with pistachios—a fabulous, perfect start. (0+)
The first course is spectacular – one of the most balanced and creative tuna dishes I can remember. Bluefin tuna, infused with kombu and contrasted with geranium ice, accompanied by a bite of caviar (+)
The second course, on the other hand, falls a little short, “normal” star level. The texture of the crab meat is perfect, it is beautifully decorated, but the mandarin could have been a little more present (0)
Next up is the signature dish of the restaurant's namesake, Anne Sophie Pic (the only female chef with a three-star restaurant in France): Les Berlingots, pointed pastries filled with cheese and served with coffee consommé – the dish looks innocuous at first glance, but then overwhelms the palate with its incredible flavor and texture. The recipe is served in a new variation every three months, and I would love to try it every time (+).
The scallops are just as impressive: minimalist presentation, perfectly cooked and complemented by cauliflower and beurre blanc with a hint of pink pepper – a delight... (0+)
I notice that all courses – apart from the appetizers – are presented on simple white porcelain, and the main course is no exception. This course is also reduced to the essentials. I choose Wagyu beef tenderloin with a hint of spicy jus and an exciting contrast of slight bitterness from leeks. The meat is cooked medium-rare as requested and flavored with shiso. (0+)
The pre-dessert is initially a classic cheese from the trolley, a piece of Le Saint-Nectaire. This is accompanied by a playful plate of black currant sorbet (0). And the dessert—where I can choose between winter chestnut, poached pear, and millefeuille—is magnificent. I opt for winter chestnut, as the description “perfumed with smoked vanilla, served with whiskey kalamansi and kumquat sorbet” sounds the most interesting. I am not disappointed (0+)
The successful sequence of the menu is striking. The beginning was very playful... then it became more and more reduced, in the best sense of the word. The playfulness returned with the desserts. And after dessert, I return to the pass and am able to chat with chef de cuisine Justine Ravetti for quite some time. Exciting.
The menu (7 courses Voyage, 1015 AED) is on the pricy side for a one-star, even for Dubai, but the value for money is there, no doubt.
Conclusion: magnificent location, a harmonious menu without any weaknesses, and excellent service. What more could you want? For me, this is one of the best one-star restaurants I have ever visited. I will (hopefully) be back. Highest Recommendation.
