Armchair Designer (AcD)
Google
A lot of work goes into providing a fine dining experience here, and it shows from the lobby to the garden.
Every item on the menu has been refined and polished, just as the lengthy spiel waiters seem obligated to introduce each dish with, and every precaution is taken to ensure the patrons feel they get their money's worth, possibly to a fault...
The dégustation menu feels more like a medley than a story, dutifully (and brilliantly at times) ticking boxes, but without much sense of direction.
Clearly no resource nor effort were spared into making this place happen, but it's really a challenge to imagine any single mind behind the result.
Now, I don't want to minimise the merits of Eric Guérin and his staff : successfully running a high-class restaurant is insanely difficult, and maintaining a Michelin star (for 20 years, now) can weigh heavy on a chef and owner.
Thus, it's in a spirit of support and encouragement that I dare wish for La Mare aux Oiseaux to be a tad more intent on storytelling in the plate, to match its website, menu, and staff presentation.