La Serre Ô Délices

"La Serre in Fulton Market has a distinct charm. It’s relaxed and chic (with a single monstrous bouquet in the center of the dining room), buzzy but never too loud, and the French-Mediterranean menu is thoughtful despite the presence of big mirrors that say corny things like “Merci Beaucoup.” Dishes like creamy angel hair pasta pair perfectly with 15g of caviar on top, warranting the $55 price. But there are more-than-satisfying takes on less-pricey classics like delicate tuna crudo, juicy filet mignon, and other plates that don’t demand La Serre’s favorite add-on of tiny scoops of fish eggs. A spot like this can seem like it’s trying too hard, but like a staged marriage proposal done well, the greenhouse decor has just the right amount of flowers and pink and red everywhere. It’s not tacky, it’s romance." - Nick Allen