La Traviata

Middling food doesn't take away from La Traviata's charm - Review - San Francisco - The Infatuation

"The phrases “this restaurant feels like a dinner party” or “it's like eating in someone’s home” get thrown around a lot. But at La Traviata, there’s no better way to describe it. The old-school Italian spot in the Mission has an intrinsic familial warmth. There's a small waiting room, also known as the baby stroller parking lot, and the dining room's broken-in booths and white-clothed tables have hosted over 50 years of regulars. On the walls, framed portraits of famous opera singers (La Traviata, hello) and stars like Santana and Keanu Reeves, and a former mayor of Los Angeles greet you as you walk by. Ask about any of them, and the owner will happily tell you the story behind it. Like any meal that feels like it came from someone’s family kitchen, there are some imperfections in the food. Bruschetta can be a little over-toasted, the aurora sauce for the gnocchi needs a pinch more salt, and tiramisu could do with a little more soaking. But, the missteps are easy to overlook when you’re overhearing some endearing bickering between family members working the floor. You come here to pick up a few anecdotes about the restaurant’s past and have a nice evening, not because of any particular dish. Bring a small group or a date—booths and tables are best for four people maximum—especially if you forgot to make a reservation, since walk-ins are usually no problem. video credit: Patrick Wong Food Rundown Bruschetta The topping has a slight bite that we love, though we wish the pieces of bread were more evenly toasted. There’s also a daily “chef’s surprise” if the traditional version isn’t exciting enough for you—cross your fingers it’s the grilled mushrooms and onion with marsala wine. photo credit: Patrick Wong Gnocchi Bouncy and effortless to chew like a good gnocchi should be. We suggest going with one of the other sauce options, as the aurora is a tad bland and needs more salt. photo credit: Patrick Wong Carbonara A must-order. This pasta is so rich you could house it and be prepared to hibernate for winter. The crispy bits of pancetta add some much-appreciated pops of salt and crunch that perk up the eating experience. PlayMute video credit: Patrick Wong Salmon Alla Wixel Ceremoniously cut free from a parchment paper pouch tableside, this salmon releases a huge exhale of steam. The resulting filet is silky, and also topped with olives, tomatoes, garlic, and a touch of pesto (also tableside). It’s bright, tart, and savory all at once. photo credit: Patrick Wong Tiramisu A solid rendition that avoids being too sweet, but we find ourselves looking for stronger espresso flavor and more soaked ladyfingers. photo credit: Patrick Wong" - Patrick Wong