MichelinStarsChallenge R
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Catching up on my reviews of the new Michelin Stars in Paris and the new 2 stars in France (follow me for all the reviews and updates on every Michelin Stars in Paris and 3 Stars in France - and more obviously). I also tried the new stars in Vendée. This one is long overdue.
What’s interesting here?
La Vendée seen by the south, a 3 stars south.
First, very often, when I try some Michelin outside of Paris, I’m thinking how lucky they are. I should write this first part in French, because it does concern us. Nearly systematically, when I meet French friends outside of Paris, they explain me how lucky I am, and how if they were in Paris, they would enjoy it, discover etc… Meanwhile, when I ask if they went to the Michelin in town, they usually go in some lengthy explanation. Why am I saying that in a review for this restaurant ? Because, if I was living there, I wouldn’t miss an opportunity to go. A monthly basis would be a good start, but a weekly one more appropriate. The chance that they have is mind bugging, and I’m not convinced they realize (by the way, I was born in Vendée), nor do they take advantage of it. It might be a common human trait, but one it worth fight against. I’ve only met one person in my life who does fight, and take advantage of living the good life. A sweet old lady in St Malo. Every week she books the same table for lunch in a Michelin Star. She takes the menu and her glass of Champagne. I just wish I live long enough to be like her. My only regret is not to have offer her a glass of champagne. Because she knew how to live the good life. Do I digress ? No. I’m transitioning to my second point and preparing the last one.
If you let yourself go, and focus on his dishes, you may also start to enjoy the chance that you have to be there. There’s a focus on the essence, but not the essence of just one ingredient, no, the smell, the spirit by a clever usage of aromatics. It’s like in poetry where the writer manages to convey a specific mood, by conjuring different notes in one sentence. The St Pierre is a great showcase of this skill of his. Only long after you realize it’s a “terre mer”, only once you’re beyond the pine notes.
But let me put the nail in the coffin with a 3rd point. There’s another place in France with spirit that is very close. It’s the Villa Madie. The 2022 3 stars in Cassis. And there’s a good reason for it. The chef worked there under Dimitri Droisneau. And I’m pretty sure he’s proud of him today. So, yes, they are very lucky in Les Sables d Olonne, that someone from a 3 Stars successful contender set up a restaurant there. And yes, Vendée is becoming a gastronomic destination, I just hope that the locals realize and enjoy it
Because, they bring to Vendée their view of it, their notes. It’s enriching. It’s the way, Vendée, and the west will grow as a gastronomic destination, by both attracting and growing talents.
This one is also, despite just receiving its first star, already a very strong star. I’m looking forward to seeing his gastronomic character grow.
