Michael U.
Yelp
Owned by Sang Hoon Degeimbre with a newer, larger location in the small town of Eghezee, L'Air du Temps has been posited by many to be Belgium's next Three Star recipient from Bibendum, the current Two Stars probably a fair assessment of the restaurant's current execution though the steady progression over time shows that the best is likely yet to come.
Truly a work of passion, the Chef who came to Belgium by way of adoption at the age of five now one of its true culinary icons with his restaurant and style evolving since 1997, L'Air du Temps is now benefitted by a full culinary garden not unlike that of Hertog Jan and upping the ante by way of a more casual environment including "floating bread" hanging at each table on arrival the environment is as comfortable as it is classy, the naked wooden tables fitting the restaurant's embrace of nature rather nicely.
Offering just two tasting menus, though those truly interested can indeed request just a few plates a la carte, it seemed as though all present in the packed house opted for the longer degustation and adding €10 for a composed Cheese course the total number of plates topped twenty, open bites including bites from the garden highlighted by a Mushroom tart with Indian Cress, the first of several herbs rarely seen on menus elsewhere.
Poured a glass of lightly sweetend Fennel Juice to pair with early plates, peas with hand-ground cornmeal brightened by apple before a juicy oyster kissed with kiwi, Bread at L'Air Du Temps is another elegant Cereal Sourdough served with butter from "a farmhouse just a kilometer that way" plus one tinged with Ponzu, the later dangerous in that it will quickly see the Bread plate empty.
Bringing in an impressive array of seafood, the large Red Shrimp flattened on Toast with a surprising boost from Carrots fresh from the garden, the first 'wow' moment of many came by way of what appeared to be a grey-white Ravioli at the center of the plate, a cut with the fork actually showing it to be completely made of Radishes overlying Caviar that foiled bitter with briny.
Taken to the kitchen to stand while enjoying Liernu's Garden, the classic dish showing several Vegetables fresh from the earth in a fermented broth that helped to accentuate the freshness of each bite, return to the table saw Degeimbre launch into a one-two combination of lobster, the "Flower" served with Geranium and tomato juice while the signature pie is undoubtedly one of the most memorable dishes in all of Belgium with plenty of poached Crustacean off-set by frothy citrus cream.
Refreshing mouths by way of a light leaf of sorbet charged tableside by gin, Ground Beets next found themselves crowned with Elderflower in a makeshift "Sesame Salad" and moving swiftly into 'noodles' comprised of Kohlrabi with an egg and shaved Tuna the palate was once again engaged to more savory elements, the lamb shoulder and 'oyster' both plated as beautifully as the courses before them with flavors that challenge conformity.
No doubt a bargain for the Cheese Course, the sizable Mille-Feuille pairing soft cheese with Maple Syrup, Gingerbread Crisps and light Vanilla Cream, desserts at L'Air du Temps began with a dried Wasabi dusted in White Chocolate that ate like shaved Coconut, the Olive Oil and Lemon shards reminiscent of dessert number one at Hertog Jan while those that followed continued to show the kitchen's love of Spring flowers, the Rhubarb Pie almost as memorable as the Lobster one earlier while the Chocolate and Strawberries were simple yet pleasant, as too were the take-home lollipops from a tableside trolley.
