Qype User (filimb…)
Yelp
In Madrid, beer costs EUR5 and so does a bullfight. It was a Sunday evening show, starting 8:30, and the difference between sol o sombra, sun or shade, didn't matter. I was late, rushing through a park, tearing up old blisters, and had to watch the end of the first fight on the tv outside the arena, with other latecomers. One spaniard was trying to persuade the barman to put whisky (probably Ballantine's) in his coke, but the barman said one of his supervisors was watching.
The bull, a piebald, took 20 minutes to die, probably the best kill of the evening. Gate 4 opened and i was rushed to my stone seat. Cushions were available for another EUR1.20. A chinese woman next to me had brought her child, and the kid loved it.
The brass band high in the arena were playing interval music, and were interrupted by the band just to my right, the signal band I suppose you'd call them.
A fat man in an odd blue suit jacket carried in an enormous sign presumably saying which if the three new matadors was fighting. The senior matador checked everyone was ready, then the bull stormed in. In the abandoned ring it looked enormous, a great black charger. The matador's helpers made it run round the ring, tiring it slightly before, with another banging and blowing, the horses entered. They are heavily padded and bandaged with sweaty Aragon flags. The bull tried to tip one up and got a spear in his back for his trouble.
Then the bandilleros (thanks feedback guy) took turns sticking their spiky sticks in the bull, which strikes me as the most dangerous part of the evening, since the bull isn't tired yet. They basically stand in front of the bull, wait for it to run at them, then plant their sticks.
Another signal, the horses left and the matador entered again for his second fight. The kill happened on the far side of the arena (a la sombra) and then as the matador made his farewells round the arena the arena lights went on, making his suit light up. I suppose during the heat of the day this looks really fantastic, as it did here. Two men to my right were getting drunker and drunker on a huge cooler of Mahou.
The second two young matadors (novilleros thnx) were not so good. They all wanted their bulls to die quickly, but none did, brown, golden or black. All had to be finished off by a picador, sticking his knife through their spines, hacking until the bull stopped twitctching, at which point three donkeys yoked together and garlanded with flowers drag the bull away as running men at their sides crack whips (on the floor of the arena, not on the donkeys.)
The fourth bull caused the most problems for the horses, getting stuck on a horse for a good ten minutes as the spear went into his back repeatedly. It appeared to die on its knees but twitched a lot as the sword was removed. The fifth bull wouldn't take the cape at the end, but the matador killed him anyway (it is a competition between matadors.)
When a matador leaves the arena, the crowd wave white handkerchiefs and throw personal possessions so the matador can throw them back. If it hits the floor one of his assistants picks it up.
At the end of the evening, the crowd threw their cushions into the arena, which I presume was ironic.
The best fighters come in may, when there are daily fights, but i would guess those are more expensive. Easy to get to on the underground, the stop is Ventas.