Kitchen Insider
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Choice is unnecessary when the two options are as on point as they are here. I've seen menus with dozens of choices, none of which are the light this moth flies towards. The rump steak is about as good as this cut gets, and the assembly with the mushroom mustard and brown butter puts it over the top. Similarly, the walnut and orange make the decadent monkfish crudo as special as that birthday you had that you actually enjoyed. The desserts, too, are excellent. The chocolate mousse is as close to mine in quality and execution. The flan is the best I've ever had, though the promised kaffir lime got lost somewhere over the pacific. The syrup is as excellent as the crust. The appetisers are very good too. I'd like the terrine warmed to 30c, so the rabbit fat loosens the flavours to escape. France seems to love thin shaved raw courgette currently. It's not winning me over, but the rest of the dish is splendid. The only let downs are the sides. This town has terrific levain naturale baguatte about 80m away. The chips are a little stale, and the vegetables diced too small to be effective or photogenic. But these are small quibbles around a wonderful meal. Great service from the family team and a room as pleasurable as a hug from your favourite aunt.