Michele W.
Yelp
I haz a sad. A tremendous one. I don't know why I can't find my many prior enthusiastic 5-star reviews and updates for Lee's, because I have been their biggest cheerleader and strongest defender for years.
Their shrimp with lobster sauce, Hawaii beef, egg roll, fried noodles with duck sauce and hot mustard, have long been my designated Execution Day meal. I have patronized Lee's here in Lyndhurst and in its long-shuttered Clifton location since the late 80s. When I lived in. Nutley, I ate or ordered takeout about once a week.
Since moving to CA in January, 2000, every flight home is scheduled around their operating hours. I dine there alone frequently because friends and family are not enamored with their food. On occasion, I manage to persuade them with the promise of karaoke and turpentine-strength tropical drinks that come in a coconut shell with four straws.
You must understand, we have endless options for delicious, authentic, regional Chinese cuisine in the San Francisco Bay Area. And I mean, all over it-- the cities, the suburbs, the questionable neighborhoods. What we don't have, is the delicious Americanized "Polynesian" cuisine that I grew up with in Fair Lawn, New Jersey. We had Bamboo East--close enough to walk to for lunch during elementary school, have an egg roll and a bowl of wonton soup, and get back for the bell. We had Ho-Aloha where I did, the majority of my underage drinking, downing Maii-Tais and Rum Runners. We had Chan's Waikiki near the Paramus Park mall, and we had Jade Fountain--in the malls and in Clifton. Even EWR had great "Cantonese" food in C terminal when it was dominated by Continental Airlines,
In California, we have "tiki bars" with admittedly, excellent drinks, and mediocre "egg rolls," which we East Coasters know are actually rice paper-wrapped, celery-dominated deep fried "spring rolls," filled with soggy, insipid vegetables, which never passed my lips voluntarily during my 32 years in Jersey.
So here is why I am sad. At first, I was happy! I'm in town for the Fair Lawn High School Class of '85 reunion, not feeling very well today. My incoming flight was quite delayed, so I was unable to make my requisite stop on the way to the hotel I saw that I could actually get my mandatory Lee's order from GrubHub. I thought, "This is great! There is a microwave downstairs, and a fridge in my room. Tomorrow, I will pick up some tinfoil and big Ziploc bags, and bring some of my favorites back home to California.
That is where the happiness ends. I can forgive the fact that even though I checked the "include napkins and utensils" box, *and* added a note that said, "please make sure to include the napkins and utensils," alas, my bag was devoid of them. But that's not the problem...
The problem, my dear friends, was the quality of the food. At last visit, in the fall, I believe, I didn't think things tasted quite the same, but still felt nostalgic. Of course I was going to give them another chance. I regret to say that the complaint that have other reviewers have lodged over the past few years, are now also mine.
Starting with the Hawaii beef, which I confess I usually begin eating in the car: it is now tough, liking its distinctive, cumin and turmeric flavor, and just tastes like vinegar. The spareribs are dripping with grease, which led me to not even open the shrimp toast. The eggroll tasted like it had been heated up in a toaster oven and there was none of the juicy bites of roast pork and baby shrimp that I love so much. I did not open the chicken in foil either. The egg drop soup was fine, but I have saved the unforgivable travesty for last... the noodles are now mass produced and packaged. This is where I was actually looking forward to greasiness! Lee's noodles were like none other. They were wide, bubbly, crispy, and tasted like heaven when dipped both in the hot mustard and duck sauce. I would often ask for an extra bag to take home to California. This just hurt my soul.
I know there had been talk of selling the place in recent years, and on GrubHub, it is the *New* Lee's Hawaiian Islander, so maybe it's finally happened and the business is now more focused on the bar and karaoke which I know it had become its bread and butter. Over the past 15 years there have rarely been many other patrons when I visited during the day, and they used to do a booming lunch business. Many a pupu platter flew under the ceiling, mounted outrigger canoe while water fell down the rock wall while we sat in sea shaped booths under taxidermied pufferfish.
This is by far the longest review I have ever written because it's the closing of a chapter in my life. Thank you, Lee's, for 35 years of making me a little happier. I shan't forget you.