Lori L.
Yelp
In a little Kaimukī neighborhood restaurant, Red Hot Chili Peppers is blaring through the speakers and servers are arranging small pots of salads around baskets of khobz--a stodgy flatbread sprinkled with zaatar. A typically Moroccan meal starts with salads of cooked, seasoned vegetables, served at room temperature. For the first course, Leila offers seven salads, think "dip", to be shared, including a sweet and smoky piquillo pepper; lightly brined olives with pickled almonds; sweet tomato jam; and thick yogurt lebni topped with trout roe and dill oil.
The cocktail list is small, but offers fun twists on the classics. A preserved lemon vodka soda, an old fashion with date, a margarita with pomegranate, a French gimlet with rose, and a mint Manhattan. There is also a nonalcoholic twist on a lemonade and an ice tea. I loved the smell of the Rose Garden and the smoky, brightness of the nonalcoholic Spice Trade.
For me, the second course was the best dish of the night. Charred savoy cabbage was buttery soft, served with vadouvan curry cauliflower puree and date charmoula--think herbs and garlic like chimichurri. This dish was unexpected magic with bits of sweetness from the dates, a textural crunch, and the scent of dill.
Add-ons are available. On our evening there was Hokkaido uni on brioche toast, Kauai prawns, and Chef Lahlou's specialty, a basteeya of duck confit, raisins, caramelized onions, walnuts, and berbere wrapped in filo. I was expecting duck cooked in its own fat to be succulent and tender, but this pie was firm with flaky filo, the scent of warm spices, and mealy walnuts.
For the last course, our choices were between cauliflower, whole branzino, lamb neck, and short ribs for an up charge. Make sure you go with someone who wants to share with you. The branzino and lamb neck are portioned for two diners so there is an up charge if you order it as an individual meal. You can also add-on couscous or green farro served risotto style.
The lamb is braised for 12 hours to breakdown this tough cut resulting in meat that is crispy on the outside and pulls off the bones in long, steamy strands. The meat was mild in flavor with a sweet date glaze and a sprinkle of citrus peel and fried garlic on top. I enjoyed the accompaniments, a silky white sweet potato puree, sautéed spinach, and sun chokes. Like the other courses there was a dynamic play with sweetness, crunch, spices, citrus, and herbs.
If you have room for dessert, there is a light yuzu custard served with fresh fruit and a date cake served with vanilla buffalo milk ice cream.
It's early on, so they are still working on the timing of the courses and the space, but it's worth grabbing a partner to check them out.