Hannah E.
Yelp
Lepau is a great place to sample all sorts of Sarawak ingredients that, if you're not a local, you've probably never heard of before. My orders (spanning two visits): fish umai soured with asam paya, daun ubi gosok with tepus, anchovy tempoyak, and petai fried rice (well, that last one can be found anywhere in Malaysia - but I like petai).
Asam paya is incredibly sour on its own (I know because I accidentally tried to eat it straight in the market) and even though the fish is supposed to be raw, the fruit 'cooks' the fish almost like a steamer! This dish is very similar to ceviche, the main difference being the souring agent and the fact that fish umai is served with red rice cooked in a leaf.
Daun ubi gosok is just pounded cassava leaves, a savory dish slightly more hearty than sweet potato leaves, but lighter than the ever-present (in Sarawak) jungle fern called midin.
As for the anchovy tempoyak - even as a three-time previous tempoyak eater, this is one of the most strongly flavored dishes I've ever tried, right up there with Vietnamese bun mam. Gooey and green-tinged from the pandan leaves it's cooked in, the tempoyak suspends pieces of crispy anchovy and chunks of un-pasted durian in its jelly-like mold. This would have been a perfect dish for three people to share. As it was, I needed to mix liberal amounts of petai rice with it so as not to overload my umamu receptors.