Pierre L.
Yelp
The formerly boring block of First Avenue between 58th and 59th Street is now livelier, thanks to the recent arrival of two very different French restaurants. Les Vagabonds (the vagrants) is one of them.
The first feeling, when you arrive, is one of extremely friendly welcome. I was there early for lunch and the place was almost empty, with many tables becoming occupied within the half hour. Only one waiter was in attendance but he managed to take care of all, pleasantly, efficiently and with extreme good will. As an example, when one in my party requested the scallops, a dish which is only on the dinner menu, the answer was that, although not offered at lunch, the chef would prepare it and he did, very well so.
The originally requested figs salad was AWOL. Too bad. A starter of escargots was quite generous, the traditional six being in fact nine , moist and chewy in a garlic and herbs sauce over crackling bread. I prefer them served inside the shell, they were not, but this happens rarely in America. Also, they could have been warmer.
The afore-mentioned scallops were a generous plateful, in a melted gruyere sauce at the right temperature, quite satisfying. As to the steak tartare, it was confirmed that the meat was ground at order time, not in avance; it was cut rightly coarse as it must, not the mush often found elsewhere. The fries were crispy and tasty. Sadly, none of us had room for dessert as the portions were substantial. Last but not least, the check came without the exasperating "suggestion" of an inflated tip.
Altogether, a perfectly good meal. Although wines are printed on the menu, Les Vagabonds does not yet have its liquor license. So be it. Although it did not apply to us, it seems that diners who, before the license is granted, bring their own wine, are subject to a moderate corkage charge. That is superfluous and it should be dropped. Corkage is for when you substitute your own wine for the restaurant's. That small glitch does not affect the food's appeal and it will soon be solved anyway.
I shall return.