Michael Oh
Google
We came to France for our honeymoon and this was our first Michelin-starred dining, one of 9 around France during our trip. Out of sheer luck in timing, we caught L”Orangerie when it was upgraded from a 1-star to a 2-star Michelin restaurant earlier in the year. Located inside the Four Seasons George V, the restaurant has just 6 tables inside with large windows facing the beautiful courtyard of the hotel and Le Cinq, the 3-Michelin starred restaurant next door. The amount of money the hotel spends on flowers daily is astronomical but the opulence shows as is beautiful.
To start, this place is underrated. The Chef provides 3-star quality food at 2-star pricing. When we were done with our honeymoon, 7 of the 9 Michelin trips were to 3-starred restaurants and we thought L’Orangerie was better than half of these at two-thirds the price.
The pescatarian menu is inventive, well balanced in preparation and flavors, and creatively displayed. Most importantly, it was downright delicious. The simplest things like bread were served with seaweed butter which was full of umami and incredibly addictive. The baby squid with fresh herbs, watercress, and matcha was perfectly soft combining just the right amount of umami flavors. I can say that it was the best tasting squid I’ve ever had in my life so far. Then the next course of green asparagus with cloudy rice fermentation and blended mousseline was perfectly cooked. Normally, asparagus is prepared with heavier elements such as butter and cream but this sauce was light, acidic, and counterbalanced by crunchy veggies. I probably had asparagus at every Michelin dinner during our trip and this was easily top 2, possibly even my favorite. Every dish kept hitting with the spider crab, the milky morels, langoustine, sea bream, and blue lobster. Both my wife and I were blown away by the flavors.
This great momentum was slowed when the desserts came as the two courses lacked the flavors of the savory courses’ prior. Perhaps something with a bit more citrous and acid to lighten the palate and start the salivation as the Pompona vanilla vacherin with candied Carpentras strawberries lacked depth of flavor and finishing the dinner for something richer and sweeter than a Samana chocolate and sea grapes?
Beyond the food, the staff here were wonderful. They are friendly, genuine, inquisitive, and caring. When I was looking through the wine list and commenting at the amazing prices compared to the US, they even brought over the larger wine list from Le Cinq for me to browse while dining. The next night, we were back at the hotel to dine at Le Cinq and when I walked past some of the staff on my way to the bathroom, they remembered my face and asked how our dinner was going at Le Cinq. The server even remembered that I was wanting to try a Coche Dury Meursault and asked if I had gotten it at Le Cinq. They made us feel like friends who were checking in to see how we were doing even when we weren’t dining there.
This is an exceptional restaurant, especially for its price. If they continue this path and fine tune the dessert, 3-stars may be coming their way in a few years. We’re planning on coming to this restaurant every time we’re in Paris and to say hello again to the wonderful staff.
A bientot!