Phil G.
Yelp
BEWARE OF THE EEL. MY WIFE BECAME VERY SICK.
This review will be as frenetic as my experience at Jacky Ribault's L'Ours newly Michelin crowned restaurant in Vincennes, a chi chi town, located a stone's throw from Paris by RER.
The design and space are magnificent! This is a beautiful restaurant, large, but with nooks and crannies creating intimacy. The emerald greens, oriental rugs, and gold leaf reflect an oriental richness, reminding each patron you are sitting in a special place. That is, until you look up. An incongruous, industrial roof will stare back at you, in total discord with the rest of the design. Je ne comprend pas?
An army of tuxedo clad men, no women, scurry about, supposedly ensuring excellent, if not chauvinist, service. I rejected our first table, tucked away in a corner near the kitchen, and chose a spot with a bright window so we could both peer outside and see the food. A huge flower arrangement sat on our table, blocking our view and the server's sight line. This will prove to be a major obstacle. Discarding any thought of the offered 45 Euro three course lunch menu, we opted for the five course 75 Euro menu, and awaited the culinary performance.
The Amuse Bouch was wonderful, with unique explosions of flavor. Our first course of Sea Bream, a sweet beet sauce, and the tiniest sliver of shaved pork belly was delicious as the beets complimented the fish masterfully. A side of Barley Risotto was a light, earthy partner. The next serving destroyed my wife's taste buds. A fishy, overly rich, broiled piece of eel with a sesame Nori, overpowered any other sensation. It was nuclear, too heavy to enjoy. That dish ended my wife's lunch. She barely hung in there as I ate the rest of the meal. Asleep an hour after lunch, she asked me to cancel tonight's dinner reservation. A Japanese inspired broth followed and then a Capon. Everything was good, but not necessarily memorable. Desserts were a nice, fruit soufflé and a goat milk concoction. Portions were hearty and most of the chef's creations tasted good, but not fantastic.
The army of tuxedo clad dudes proved "well meaning," but were without leadership or direction. They all shared service and tables, thus ensuring no one received personal attention. They completely forgot my wife's wine, and I had to remind them about my vodka three times. However, they always found time to escort me to the toilet. Thank you very much. The huge flower arrangement sitting in front of our faces didn't help the sight lines at all. Service looked a bit like the old Keystone Cops movies. "Which way did they go!"
The bill for lunch came to 224 Euros, including one glass of wine, two vodkas, and a small bottle of Perrier. That's a lot of money for just a good meal in a fabulous space. I would say it was all show with no substance, but that would be false. Chef Ribault can cook his ass off. He just needs some structure and form. He also needs a good manager to captain the front of the house. It is a real mess. I will not return to L'Ours, and that makes me sad. The interior alone may be worth the trip. Install a bar, and the 20 minute train ride would be worth it. As it stands, Michelin must have been there on a good night.
BEWARE OF THE EEL. MY WIFE BECAME VERY ILL.
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