Charles Lamb
Google
I enjoyed Chef Mavro’s Spring Grand Tasting menu. The evening began with a presentation of a basket filled with local morel and chanterelle mushrooms, later to be used in some of the preparations. These turned out to be cornerstones for the menu in the ‘Egg and Morels’ and ‘Chanterelle Risotto’ courses.
An amuse bouche built on abalone topped with ikura brought interesting textures and flavors. A diver scallop with heart of palm, hibiscus, sweet corn, grape, shiso, and ume was a dish in which the sum of the parts was greater than the individual components (i.e. very successful). What doesn’t get better with shiso? Caviar service was proper and righteous. A poached egg with morel mushrooms, potato, and San Danielle prosciutto was well conceived.
The Keahole lobster was at times sashimi-like in texture. It was poached in vegetable stock which allowed more of the shellfish’s complexity to emerge than with say a more traditional butter poaching.
Miyazaki A5 Wagyu beef was perfectly prepared to enhance its butter flavor, with the green apple bringing appropriate sweetness and the creme fraiche and wasabi adding spice and mouthfeel (inspired by steak with horseradish).
Typically the palate cleaning sorbet or ‘pre-dessert’ is a write-off course, but not in this case. Honeydew Mellon in champagne gelee with fresh mint brought interesting and flavor and texture combinations.
The wine list was concise, but worthy. Pairings were absolutely appropriate, and the Egg & Musar, foie gras & Haag Spatlese Mosel Riesling, and Wagyu & Savigny les Beaune Pinot Noir combinations were inspired.
Service was excellent.