Juliet Sulejmani
Google
RECEIPT No. 3 - Manzé, North Melbourne
A living-room-sized restaurant with a playlist that makes you want to go out after, and a menu that keeps you guessing.
We went on a Friday night, just Sam and me. Everyone in the room looked like us, early thirties, curious, open to flavour and surprise. Sam sat beside a mortar and pestle. I was next to two stacked pumpkins, each the size of my head. The mood was warm and homey, in the best way.
Manzé’s set menu doesn’t tell you much, and that’s part of the point. You’re here to be surprised, and it works. A grilled green tomato reminded Sam of palak paneer. The mushroom baja arrived crisp and golden, like a curry puff with a degree. The gato arouille (taro fritters) were piping hot, hard to stab with a fork. “It’s a one-mouther,” Sam said, which became the rule for the snacks.
Each course felt like a short chapter. Fava beans with garlic and thyme. Octopus in a turmeric-mustard pickle. A cutlet with winter greens and silky pumpkin. The rice played a quiet supporting role.
We drank:
– A quince ti punch for him
– A house vermouth with passionfruit and marigold for me
The playlist was perfect, all syncopation and swing. The staff kept our water glasses full. And at one point, between dishes, we picked up a Lonely Planet guide to Mauritius and started reading.
We already know we’ll be back.
Standouts:
Salted coconut sorbet with rhubarb and semolina
The sense of being looked after without any fuss
The feeling that someone in the kitchen is doing exactly what they want, and doing it really well
Total: $205
(Somehow, always.)
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