Paul T.
Yelp
I try to visit a mission or asistencia anytime I'm in a town with one. Mission Dolores is still one of my favorites even though it's one of the smaller of the originals, and today consists of nothing more than the chapel structure and Euro-American cemetery. It is also a movie star, having been featured along with San Juan Bautista in Alfred Hitchcock's "Vertigo".
The entry is at the south end of the complex, between the Mission itself and its cemetery, through the gift store (which is not a highlight of the visit for me). You are able to see both the Mission and the larger basilica next door (not one of San Francisco's great churches by any stretch of architecture or aesthetics) and there is a small room at the rear of the mission with historic relics relative to Mission Dolores. The cemetery features several notable San Franciscan's both law abiding and otherwise as well as a couple lynched by the Vigilance Committees. Only a couple of native graves are marked however, out of the 5000 buried on site, and now beneath the street and houses. Inside the church are the graves of the protestant Noe family, who gave the land back to the church. There is a replica of a native dwelling on the site of the grotto, in the cemetery.
Unfortunately, Mission Dolores chooses to ignore its connection to California's slave origins, when the native peoples were in various manners brought into the "fold" but prevented from leaving, and forced to work the agricultural concerns for which the missions were founded. There was a revolt at one point when the natives weren't even being provided with the hot meal mission rules obligated the Padres to provide. It's interesting, if you see more than one mission, to see how each one chooses to deal with the thorny issue of slavery---some ignore it, like Dolores; others prefer to whitewash it, like San Juan Bautista. But all the missions closed shortly after Mexican independence as part of Mexico's outlawing of slavery. By that time Mission Dolores had long since been replaced by Mission San Rafael, and then, more effectively, by Mission San Francisco de Solano, in Sonoma and became something of a resort, of all things.
As an incentive: Two blocks to the south there's BiRite ice cream, on 18th/Dolores. Dolores Park Cafe is right across 18th from that and there's Maxfield's for coffee on 17th, a block south. Dolores Park has a great view of the City from the top. And it's easy to get to Mission Dolores on the "J" church from it's 16th st stop, behind the building. Or walk down from the "F" Line stop at Dolores/Market (Whole Foods/Safeway).
Definitely worth it---and if you're lucky, on a holiday mass---you'll see the building come alive with the ceremony held within its ancient walls. Do remember if visiting on Sundays or during mass--the basilica is a parish church so enter respectfully as a mass may be in progress.