Robert H.
Yelp
The high thin cold air of mountains attracts.
Why climb them?
Because they are there!
I was fortunate to climb this one with 3 friends. There is a standard May season for the South route. You want to start early, 1AM. There will usually be quite a few people on the same route. Pass the steam vents. Yes it is a volcano. Those vents are outlet to hydrogen sulfide gases which will kill you. They have killed.
Traverse the ridge. Then work your way around the Bergschrund crevasse. Be sure you are on rope and prepared. Really - http://community.seattletimes.nwsource.com/archive/?date=20020531&slug=hood31m and http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_Hood_Bergschrund.htm.
The final approach is the Pearly Gates. This is where a helmet can save your life. It is a chute. Rocks can break free of the ice and when they fall, they will follow the chute you are in. There is no protection against rocks above a certain size. That is why it is critical to climb early in the day and in the season. Once the sun hits that side of the mountain, rocks and ice start breaking free and fall in that chute. You do not want to be in.
The summit is broad and has good mobile reception. Hey, phone home to family!
Mind the chute on the descent, and of course on the steep parts up or down, be prepared for a self arrest.
We had a slip in our party descending just below the Pearly Gates. We were roped, I was at the highest point on the rope and I was able to dig the handle of my ice axe in to the hilt to arrest my downhill partner.
To climb you will need water, snacks, layers, sun protection, lip protection, eye protection from sun, a headlamp, whistle, extra batteries and a foam pad to sit on, plus alpine boots, crampons, helmet, an ice axe, a harness and rope. Alpine boots are plastic and foam insulated like old school ski boots. They are warm and work well with the crampons. You can rent these items at Next Adventure, REI and the Mountain Shop. A compass, altimeter, GPS and a backup map is a good idea, people have wandered off the mountain in the wrong direction in white outs.
Get a permit and check out the climber log at the new lodge. It's open 24x7x365. Be sure to check in when you return! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJDZRnD3RkM I'm an advocate for locator beacons. You can rent them at the main Portland outdoor shops. You will be fined $500 if a rescue is required and you are not carrying a phone and or beacon. You need a phone to dial 911 to notify emergency to track the beacon.
Most of the May season the risk of dying is low, but storms or getting off the route make the beacons a good idea. A classic accident was in 1986 http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_Hood_EpiscopalSchool.htm. A storm. Zero visibility.
That Mt Hood climbing disaster is the second worst in US climbing history.
The quintessential climbing error is not turning back before the summit when that is the right thing to do. You can watch the 2015 film Everest, based on the mountain disaster on Everest in 1996, recreated, it reads like a litany of bad decisions. Don't be them in your climb! We want you back in good health!
We undertake many voluntary actions which could result in death. Don't add your name to the statistics. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hood_climbing_accidents. I have friends who climb with Mt Rescue http://www.pmru.org/. Their website has videos and information for all climbers. Review them before planning a climb. They do a good, hard, and unfortunately, sometimes sad job.
Mt Hood is in Clackamas County and the sheriff's office does a great job in emergencies, including the low altitude lost hikers. The ski areas have sent snowcats for evacuations as far as they can go. The national guard has also been critical in the most difficult events.
I always recommend the Mazamas http://www.yelp.com/biz/mazamas-portland, though I was fortunate to climb with friends. In fact, I strongly recommend the Mazamas if you want to climb Hood. Did I say you should climb with the Mazamas? OK!
More: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuqEoDnmfdo
Mt Hood is beautiful. We are fortunate to have it near and for its altitude to snatch snow from ocean winds. It's an accessible challenge to climb. Because it is there!