Jen K.
Yelp
I find visiting the Louvre painful. Way too many crowds to lose yourself in the art. And the sheer size of the museum and the varied collection can be overwhelming. So the museums that really appealed to me in Paris are those smaller collections with a specific point of view. More passionate and more personal. That is certainly the case of the Musée Nissim de Camondo.
The gorgeous estate is dedicated to the glory of 18th century French architecture, art and furnishings. The owner, Moïse de Camondo, was obsessed with 18th century France and had a perfectionist's zeal for designing a masterpiece (although he included many 19th century conveniences) to thrill the artistic and cultural elite during his time in Paris. His dinner parties were legendary and the home was regularly visited by artists and scholars to view the masterpieces and dine at his elegant banquets.
But, the commentary was quite stunning and bittersweet. All the money in the world (he was heir to one of the largest banking fortunes of the Ottoman Empire) could neither buy love (his wife left him), nor protect his family from two major forces of sorrow in the early 20th century (World War 1 and the concentration camps of WW2).
Mr. de Camondo built the house for his beloved son to enjoy, but his life was cut short when he was killed in action in 1917 serving his country as a fighter pilot in WW1. Life was never the same and Mr. de Camondo all but retreated from public life and his elegant parties were drastically curtailed. He had a daughter, but she didn't share her father's interest and once she married, she moved out of this glorious estate and he was left to wander the halls alone. Her family (including husband and two children), were later killed in a Nazi concentration camp in WW2.
Upon his death, his will bequeathed the home and all of its furnishings to the Arts Décoratifs in his son's name for the enjoyment of all. Although the reasons are sad, it is a joy to tour the home and listen to the excellent audio guide that really provides not just bare facts, but really describes life in that vibrant era. Highlights for me were the kitchen, the dining room with a fully set table, in anticipation of an elegant soiree with sample menu, and the oval salon with the collection of paintings describing the courtship of a shepherd and shepherdess.
It is interesting to me, that sometimes it is immigrants that most fully embrace the cultural richness and heritage of their adopted homes. That is certainly the case here. Born in Turkey, he became one of the most prominent members of French society and didn't just write a check to fill it house with fine things. It is clear his hand was involved in every decision. One of his passions was reuniting items of a collection that had been scattered to the winds. Too bad he didn't have as much success creating a happy home.
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-- This museum is included in the Paris Museum Pass - http://en.parismuseumpass.com/ (aka the best money I ever spent in France).
-- Photography (without flash) is permitted.