David J.
Yelp
Appropriately for the country that gave the world railways, the National Railway Museum is the largest of its type in the world.
The museum was opened on the present site in 1975, when it inherited the collection from the British Railways collections previously at Clapham and York. Today, it displays over 50 locomotives (mostly British) and 80 items of other rolling stock. (The national collection comprises around 100 locomotives and 200 other items of rolling stock - the remainder are distributed around other museums, particularly Locomotion at Shildon near Darlington.)
As well as rolling stock, the museum has a model railway layout (which runs to scale speed and timetables), a small outdoor miniature railway for small children, a workshop with viewing gallery and a museum store with everything from models to engine nameplates, railway crockery and silverware and furniture! There is also a substantial library and archive open to the public.
The museum is huge, and rather sprawling in layout: allow half a day (at least) to do it justice. The station hall, a former goods depot, is laid out like a station, and houses complete trains, as well as the collection of Royal Trains, which is one of the most impressive parts of the collection (Victoria's favourite Royal Train is a lesson in high Victorian sumptuousness - even the ceilings are padded and lined with silk). One of the locomotives here is the Southern Railway's Winston Churchill, which pulled the great man's funeral train from London to his place of burial.
Outside, the South Yard depot houses some diesel locomotives and a short walk away is the Interactive Learning Centre for smaller children.
Back through the shop and the passage under Leeman Road brings you to the Great Hall, with locomotives set around a turntable. Here are Mallard, which holds the world speed record for steam traction (126mph), a Japanese Bullet Train, reproductions of Stephenson's Rocket of 1830, and a section of the Channel Tunnel. Other locomotives include some built for export, as well as representatives from the various British railway companies prior to the grouping of 1923 and nationalisation in 1948. The balcony area (library and archives) provides an excellent overall vantage point. Below this is the scale model railway.
The Works section, adjacent, includes both the workshop (where you can see vehicles undergoing restoration), the history of signalling, a live display of the East Coast Main Line signalling panels (relayed from York Signal Box), a viewing platform next to the entrance to York Station, and the Warehouse, with the collection of other railway artefacts as well as a Deltic locomotive.
As you can gather, this is one big museum, so be prepared and don't try and do it one go - a tea break was, after all, an institution on the working railway! As others have said, wear comfy shoes: some of the surfaces are uneven, and you wouldn't want to miss clambering on board a locomotive.
If I have a criticism, it's that the curation is a bit haphazard - quite a number of the locomotives had no descriptions, some of the displays clearly haven't been updated to take account of privatisation (references to British Rail abound), and there is no clear logic to the arrangement of many of the exhibits - by timeline, for example.
I suspect this is partly to do with the difficulty of re-arranging the locomotives which come and go from the national collection, but it can make it hard to find something specific. The great 'Stirling Single' locomotive was hidden rather forlornly in the Depot next to some diesels, with no description at all. Still, I suspect that won't bother the vast majority of visitors, particularly the vast number of families with excited children!
On the upside, there is a huge amount of information on the workings of the railways, there are plays and other special events and entertainment to bring the exhibits to life, as well as special exhibitions. They have a substantial educational programme for schools.
Practicalities
The main entrance is actually rather indistinct, on the south side of Leeman Road (look out for the 'NRM' flags). It's a short walk from the railway station, and there is parking nearby. The museum has level access throughout, with extensive use of lifts, although not all exhibits are accessible by wheelchair.
It has a very good shop, with books, DVDs, toys, prints, posters and the like. There are cafes in the Great Hall and the Station Hall. A self-guided tour is also available.
Entrance is free.
It won the European Museum of the Year award in 2001, and is the busiest museum in the UK outside London, with three quarters of a million visitors.