Jane D.
Yelp
Gather 'round, me little buccaneers. I'm going to tell you a story:
Fifteen years ago, NYC was a desert. There was no good Mexican food in Manhattan to speak of outside of a competent home kitchen. You had a few gringo-style places like Rosa Mexicana, Gabriela's, Frida's, a few pitiful holes in the wall serving refried beans from a can. We had just moved back to NYC from California, where Mexican food was remarkably varied, regionally diverse, and well made, with upscale and downscale places serving everything from 30 types of mole and chapulines, to aguachiles and ceviches, pescado zarandeado, goat birria, tamales chipilín, chocolomo, etc, etc, etc... Our return to NYC was tragic as far as access to Mexican food was concerned. Pickins were slim. Slimmer than a starving taquito slim.
Near us, we had the sobre ruedas taco truck and Noche Mexicana -- and we considered ourselves very, very lucky. You could get some basic, street-food style offerings at both, which, while a pale ghost of what California had to offer, had some delicious elements... for NYC.
Fast forward to the present... The scene has changed. Nowadays, we are graced with the likes of Cosme, Atla, Tacombi, Los Tacos #1, Taqueria. Even Trader Joe's sells pretty good tamales. But against this backdrop, Noche Mexicana has remained in stasis. What was a good taco for NYC 15 years ago is now merely average, lacking in amenities like homemade tortillas, spit roasted pork, homemade salsa roja and verde, homemade mole. Tacos are served with shredded iceberg lettuce, as gringo a garnish as there ever was.
Still, for fast, cheap food, it beats the pants off of Taco Bell. The lengua is not griddled, with that crisp, caramelized exterior that makes my heart go pitter patter. It's soft and braised. The texture is likable in this own right, soft as a marshmallow, but with a bit of bite / snap. We find it a little lacking in salt, but a touch of salsa roja can fix almost anything.
Huaraches are a little underdone, the proteins are bland (left so intentionally so they can later be "finished" in a wide range of sauces). I like the breakfast egg dishes, especially the huevos rancheros, which come over easy, on two soft corn tortillas, with guacamole, queso fresca, and pico de gallo on the side.
I agree with other reviewers who say service at the restaurant is very weak. That's why we order in through an app that allows us to avoid human interaction almost completely.