Wendy B.
Yelp
I have heard many say, 'Don't bother with Oahu. The other islands are better." I think they are wrong on many levels. Oahu has a personality and specialness all its own. But part of this discovery was based on avoiding tour buses, shunning the obvious tourist traps, and venturing on our own. Rent a car and get out of the city.
Here is what you must do. Divide and conquer. With the help of some well keened reviews from my Yelper friends, a couple of whom graciously became tour guides for a day, it was easy and fun. If only I had more time.
But first of all, a few observations. You need to prepare yourself mentally for some significant "differences", and that goes beyond shaved ice, poke, and spam breakfasts:
So, what is it with the drivers in this state? Unlike Californians with their maniacal, death defying driving styles, Hawaii has some of the most courteous drivers I have ever seen. At one point where two lanes of a freeway on-ramp merged into one, I witnessed a big guy in an even bigger pick-up truck and a little woman in a Toyota Corolla, fully on a path to collision, slow down to a complete stop and wave the other on...you go first...no, you go first...no you...no you. I found it comical. Mr B found it annoying, but then he was driving. Further more, they actually drive the speed limit. Unheard of. Is this part of that easy going, Aloha spirit I have been forewarned to embrace?
And when you see someone giving you a hand sign, called "shaka" (your pointer, middle, and ring fingers pointing down to the palm and thumb and pinky up), don't panic and go for the pepper spray, dear city dwellers. This is a sign of greeting and welcome. If you can't handle all this niceness, maybe you should travel instead to Beirut.
Furthermore, I am still baffled as to why they prefer backing into perpendicular parking spots. It's just weird. Everybody does it. I looked it up. Backing up is the greatest cause of collisions in parking lots. Never did see a fender bender, but it sure made me feel uncomfortable.
Honolulu and the surrounding area has to plenty to offer, with the history of Pearl Harbor, to fine dining, museums, high rents and high rises, illogical streets, traffic jams, and unending road construction projected to be completed in Hawaiian time. However, the further you get away from Honolulu/Waikiki, the better your chances of not being slapped in the face by modern life and corporate chain restaurants and businesses that suck all the uniqueness out of any vacation experience. Even as they invade, however, the mom and pop places are everpresent and steadfast, just look. Don't bother the concierge, ask the locals and be willing to venture into some of the hidden, older areas.
Heading up the leeward (western) side on Hwy 93 past Ko'Olina, you may realize they talk funny. 'Pidgin' English is the norm. Taking a class in Pidgin 101 might help, http://www.shakadivers.com/pidgeon.htm , but you need not exchange American $$ for puka shells and kukui nuts for bartering. I also observed a Seagull School. I wonder if Jonathan Livingston Seagull trained here? Pretty beaches (the famous Makaha comes to mind), golden dry hills, well weathered older homes proving that a middle class life on these islands is difficult to achieve, and unremarkable businesses are a common sight. Very laid back. That's local style.
If, instead, you follow your nose towards the center of the island, within an hour Hwy H2 brings you to the North Shore where still productive, old plantations flourish. Keep your eyes open and you will see gentle hills and acreage filled with pineapples, coconut palms, banana trees, macadamia bushes, and coffee orchards. This is where papayas, guavas, and mangoes thrive in everyone's front yard. The North Shore is also the land of food trucks and tiny, makeshift businesses. This is where the ocean is layered with breakers and surfing is king (and very easy on the eyes, I said gushingly). Starting around the historic town of Haleiwa, you can hook up with Hwy 83 which takes you eastward through quaint beach towns and alongside breathtaking, more isolated beaches. Keep following the highway and you have arrived on the windward side.
The windward (eastern) side is the wild side of the island. This is where you find rocky shores, small towns, obviously the rainy side. As you travel south on Hwy 83, the tall, rippled cliffs laden with lush vegetation come dramatically into view. This eventually leads to the legendary Pali, a magnificent cliff which overlooks the peaceful Kailua Bay. By the time you reach Kailua, you are back in civilization and will find yourself rubbing noses with the elite.
You really can't get lost. And even if you did, if you keep driving, you will end up at the same place in a few hours. Island = round = the many faces of Oahu I happily visited.