Bradley N.
Yelp
OK, when you think "Santa Clara Valley," you usually think about San Jose, Stanford, or Silicon Valley giants like Google, Apple, HP, or Facebook. But there are also great vineyards scattered about the southern fringes of Santa Clara, in pockets like the Morgan Hill foothills and the Lexington Reservoir outside Saratoga and Los Gatos, where great grapes are to be found.
The folks at Odonata know this. And they embrace the potential of Santa Clara AVA wine-making with a youthful, male passion that is - frankly - infectious. Odonata is basically a 3-man operation, headed by a former UC-Santa Cruz student who apprenticed to local winemakers and eventually expanded out into Monterey County's River Road wine country, within spitting distance of the famed Santa Lucia Highlands. These 3 places - the Santa Clara Valley, the Santa Cruz Mountains, and the Salinas Valley/Santa Lucia Highlands - are the primary sources for the remarkable wines made here, usually less than 8,000 cases annually. A nominal $10 tasting fee waived with bottle purchase gets you a selection of anywhere from 6 to 9 wines, ranging widely from dry and sparkling Riesling (yes, you read that right) to deep and dark red wines like Peitie Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon (from a vineyard adjacent to Ridge's Monte Bello estate), Mourvedre, Malbec, Grenache, and Sangiovese (no Durif on our visit, but maybe next time ...).
About 2/3 of the current releases come from the Machado Creek Vineyard, near Morgan Hill, which Odonata tends and picks each season, but other standouts wines are sourced from great vineyards like Besson (old-vine reds near Gilroy also favored by Bonny Doon and Birichino) and in the Santa Lucia Highlands (source for their Rieslings). There are Santa Cruz Mountains Pinots, too, and that outstanding Douglass Crest Cabernet from the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Tastings happen inside the barrel room, a shed-like space with indoor bar and outdoor patio near to the lower end of the Salinas Valley, about 20 minutes by car from Monterey and Seaside. They are open for no-reservation tastings each weekend from noon to around 5pm, and the locals know and appreciate how good these wines really are.
What's cool about Odonata is how youthful and vibrant the the place feels - the winemaker and his assistants are in their 20s and 30s and really love what they do, which is to make wine but also to live their lives with a sense of enthusiasm, be it surfing the waves, recalling their Mexican-American roots, or just savoring the flavors of a sparkling Sangiovese (yes, you also read that right), a kick-a## Machado Creek Grenache, or a brooding Santa Cruz Mountains Cab. I'd be hard pressed to leave here without 4 bottles minimum, more red than white, but definitely a dry Riesling and perhaps a rosé or sparkler as well. Petite Sirah is the flagship here, a great dark berry and ripe tannic rendition at around 15% alcohol, aged in a combination of French, American, and Hungarian oak. But don't leave out the others here, including the Besson vineyard Syrah, which brims with smoked bacon and peppercorn spice, a really nice wine to pair with grilled meat and vegetables like pimenton-spiced eggplant, shishito peppers, or chanterelle mushrooms.
Lots of wineries have well-trained, professional pourers who will captivate you with their wines and wit. At Odonata, the people wear their passion on their sleeves and they know the wines from grape to glass. Hard to be unhappy about that!
Make the trek to River Road and sample what Monterey County winemakers like Odonata, Wrath, and Ventana have to offer. It's not Napa, or the Dry Creek, or the Anderson Valley. More cauliflower, spinach, and strawberries grow here than wine, but the wines, they are satisfying, honest, and special, and that makes the trip here well worth your while.