Keita I
Google
Prior to staying at a luxury ryokan in Dogo Onsen proper (Bettei Oborozukiyo), we decided to check out Setouchi Retreat Aonagi as a means to relax on site and explore Tadao Ando's creation. While there's creativity and uniqueness in the design and aesthetic of the property, it kind of left us cold.... it's a sea of concrete in our eyes. Yes, there are some interesting nooks and crannies that stirred our senses, large windows everywhere let in an abundance of natural light, and the decor was tastefully minimalistic, it still felt as if we were staying in a museum or a European castle rather than a grand and comfortable home. Something to experience once, but not really a place one craves to return - at least in our minds. And given that it's a 25-minute drive away from Dogo Onsen, you really need to be a big fan of Mr. Ando to spend more than a night here.||||Everything about the property was done right. Service is attentive and prompt, the food was very good (not top class but still a memorable experience) and the view of the Seto Inland Sea is Instagram-worthy. We were able to book the one and only Aonagi Suite, which has a massive 170 square meters of living space and is Maisonette-style with the living room having a very tall, double-height ceiling with double-height windows, allowing for breathtaking views and tons of natural light in the room. If there's one nit to pick, it's the lack of a real Onsen bath in the room, which is a bummer. And while many luxury properties in Japan provide a communal or rental Onsen facility (or both), here at Aonagi they offer a Pool with a Sauna and an Onsen Jacuzzi that can be privately rented by guests staying there. Some might like the idea of an Onsen jacuzzi, but we did not. The Onsen experience is supposed to be calm, serene and relaxing; a jacuzzi exudes more of a party atmosphere, which doesn't fit well under this concept. Also, while stylish, the pool and jacuzzi feel like being in a (artificially created) dungeon. I would've much preferred something of an open-air variety, to be honest.||||The other curious aspect of the property is the fact that all guests (other than those staying at the Aonagi Suite) are forced to dine in the main restaurant. Given that it has "Retreat" to its name, and caters to celebrities and the wealthy, I would've thought that Aonagi would offer private dining - if not in one's own room, then at least in private "koshitsu" rooms. We knew this going in, so we were thankful that the Aonagi Suite was available for booking for the date of our intended stay.||||Dinner was excellent, but how could it not be? Seafood caught in the Seto Inland Sea are world famous in quality, and everything from the local Red Sea Bream, Spanish Mackerel and White Horse Head were fantastic. The executive chef was recently transferred to the property from one of the sister properties (Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami), and still maintains connections to Iki Island that allows him access to amazing fish, namely Longtooth Groupers and Blackthroat Seaperch (the latter is among our favorite fish and a major delicacy in Japan.) The Iyo Beef Filet was also tender and flavorful for such a lean cut, and the "Takikomi Tai Meshi" (Rice cooked in a pot mixed with Red Sea Bream) was spectacular. In a way, out overall experience was different than what we expected going in. We were unsure about the quality of food and service given that much of the attention is directed to the architecture, but these aspects were the definite highlights for us.||||While we appreciate everything that Tadao Ando has accomplished in his lifetime, as a luxury hotel we don't think it works for everyone. It didn't for us. Still, there's a lot to like at Setouchi Retreat Aonagi, and we're glad that we were able to check it out. And if you really like the achitecture, then this property will be an absolute paradise for you.
