Larry B.
Yelp
Olivadi (named after a town in the Calabria region of Italy---near the bottom of the "boot") is at least as much an experience as a restaurant. Its unique quality revolves around the special way we have been made to feel, every time we visit (even if we have been away for an extended period of time), in addition to the excellent food, extensive wine list, and impeccable service. In the two or more years since we discovered this place, hidden on a side street in the middle of Norwood, the atmosphere welcoming us "home" has warmed our hearts as it has excited our taste buds, and filled our stomachs. Olivadi is the epitome of "Enlightened Hospitality," as espoused by the well-known New York restauranteur, Danny Meyer.
We have been privileged to spend time talking with many of the staff, including the most gracious manager, Anne-Marie, our friend and preferred server (and budding wine expert) extraordinaire, Gabriella (ask to be seated at her station---she's a treasure), and now, the new Executive Chef, Jose Cardoza, a native of El Salvador, who has previously cooked in various high-end Boston area restaurants. We are blessed to have him heading up the kitchen at Olivadi, because everything that was good about the food before has been elevated to its best, and Chef Cardoza's innovative and playful spirit pervades the new menu items.
Every third Wednesday evening of the month features a three-course regional wine-tasting dinner (reservations necessary), specially crafted to complement the wines chosen. Last month, we were treated to Piemontese wines of Northwestern Italy, along with carefully curated flavors, some of which actually incorporated the wines themselves into the recipes.
A three-course dinner was perfect to highlight the wines themselves, chosen by Chef Cardoza and Anne-Marie, and supplied by the genial and knowledgeable (but never pretentious) Rich Ricci, of the Vineyard Road Distributors in Framingham. Unlike other tasting dinners, which often turn into palate-numbing affairs, because of too many wines, this one, equally about showcasing the talents of Chef Cardoza was a blissful marriage of very accessible wines with soul-satisfying food.
The first course, a seafood ravioli---generously stuffed with lobster, scallop and shrimp, was bathed in a saffron cream, with tomatoes to balance the richness, and asparagus tips for texture. The very interesting unfiltered Roero Arneis from Negro Angelo & Figli (vinified strictly from the indigenous Arneis grape, unlike typical Roeros, which use 95% Nebbiolo) was scented with pear, and the delightful "bready" aroma of the remaining yeast compared with a Loire Muscadet sur Lies, and set off the unctuous sauce elegantly.
The second course, perfectly cooked filet steak medallions (medium rare---there is no other way to respect a beautiful cut of meat), over a creamy spinach risotto, presented on a crisped slice of baked potato (instead of the more pedestrian crouton), was topped with a light, flavorful demiglace, and some baby greens. With this, Chef chose a gutsy, though lightly tannic Barbera d'Alba, from the reliable winery of Paolo Scavino. The toasted oak in which the wine was aged set off the Maillard reaction of the seared meat perfectly, and the plum/cherry nose on the wine paired well with the rich demiglace and risotto.
The final course brought a special glow to Chef Cardoza's eyes as he described it: A fig tart, the figs having been macerated, and then cooked down in the wine served with the dish---but this was no ordinary tart: The wine also having been incorporated into the delicate whipped mascarpone/ricotta/polenta(!) base, piped elegantly into a substantial shortbread crust, topping a vibrant raspberry garnish, with very lightly sweetened whipped cream, demonstrated Chef Cardoza's wizardry in combining seemingly heavy elements into an ethereal and late-summer inspired masterpiece. The wine, a Langhe Nebbiolo (yes, a light brownish colored, but richly aromatic cherry/leather red wine with dessert) brought this dessert to exactly the level it deserved.
