Samsunshine L.
Google
It was almost ok. Ambiance, your visceral sense of space, lends a large part to a dining experience. Light, color, texture, sound, materials, spacing, windows, tableware, even use of fire and water are curated (if even by neglect) in each restaurant. Lighting is so very important. The harsh, bitter exposing glare of 3 star Piazza Duomo is almost as baffling as this new generation progressive Bolognese experiment, oltre, where the entire dining room has no lights on. Only when you are seated at a table do they turn on your one single tabletop LED. Not having still enough light to see the "punched paint chip selector" style menu and miniscule wine list, I turned on the light at the two top next to us, tables separated by about six inches. The hostest ran across the room, shaking her finger at me, and turned that light off. OK. Only one Barolo on this menu, and slightly pricier than the place, but we went for it... And the 2016 Meteri/Grasso Cascina del Monastero had very well developed and smoothly integrated Barolo notes: spice, leather, dry red fruit, black Sharpie, and that oaky hug. The food was certainly moving in a newer direction. Baccala cannolo with olive powder could have used a much thinner shell and more potato. Chicken liver mousse on brioche with persimmon was fine but with no outstanding notes. Passatelli (heavy pasta cylinders) with cheese, celeriac, and mussels actually worked quite well! Sangiovese peposo-braised capriolo (roe deer) on maccheroncini tasted like all the other wine braised country style meats that we've been having, but the fresh pasta was very good on this dish. Venison with black truffle and one single baby carrot was quite well cooked. Pre-dessert of almost frozen grapefruit snot was the first truly inedible thing we've run into this month! Strawberry-grape mousse and sorbet with grapes two ways on more brioche felt like an excuse looking for a dish... Unable to be seen in its little mustard bowl, that's ok, because it's a visually cool dish only. Oltre has been open a while, so you would think that they've hit their stride. I see potential here, but several misses of things not thought out, or perhaps too broad of a selection of food, and a dismal selection of wine.